Re: Long life lights

On Sun, 24 Aug 2008 13:27:49 -0500, "Tim Williams"

> > > > wrote: > >I've got a problem. I happen to carry the distinction of being the one > >responsible for changing lights. Much as that's a problem in itself, the > >biggest problem is.....the front porch light (surprisingly, it's not a > >stairway light, eh?), which happens to be a hanging, upside-down, enclosed > >fixture. And they put two screws in the thing, so it's almost impossible > >for a single person to replace the bulb thus inserted. Really quite > >remarkable how no one thought of this. > > >Besides modifying it, which I may consider because it's just that bad, in > >the mean time I need something that'll last. We've already tried the "ten > >gajillion hour" CFLs, which died in all of, you know it, three months. I'm > >guessing something high voltage (130V+?) and incandescent. Any > >recommendations? > > >Tim > > A 230 volt incandescent, or a 120 volt one with a diode in series. > > I find that, in general, CFs last a long time if run continuously, but > die when cycled. So a 5 or 7-watt CF might be left on 24/7 and last > longer and use less net power than an incendescent run at lower > voltage.

Heat kills CFL's, they are not rated for use in enclosed housings. No air flow in enclosed space = hot = short life. The XXXXX hours rating on the box are usually free-air ratings.

I've started switching to Envirolux T5 circular fluro's with a separate electronic ballast, they run much cooler.

Dave.

Reply to
David L. Jones
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In , David L. Jones wrote in part:

There are integral-electronic-ballast CFLs that are sufficiently heat-resistant to be rated for use in recessed ceiling fixtures. My experience suggests that enclosed fixtures don't get much worse than recessed ceiling fixtures.

Examples of such CFLs: Philips "Marathon" triple arch, of wattages 15,

20 and 23 watts (but not 25), and only non-dimmable versions. I have seen them at Home Depot. Use the 15 watt one when you can.

The hour rating is median life expectancy in a 25 degree C ambient at 3 hours per start.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

Reply to
Don Klipstein

On a sunny day (Tue, 26 Aug 2008 01:47:42 +0000 (UTC)) it happened snipped-for-privacy@manx.misty.com (Don Klipstein) wrote in :

Right, this one is from my kitchen, failed early, ftp://panteltje.com/pub/philips_9_watt.jpg

Sorry bad photograph, but if you look close you will see many soldering joints sort of worked lose due to thermal stress. This bulb was just upside down in in the ceiling, but in free air, like this.

-------------------- [ ] || ||

Not sure what is wrong, or even if it is the soldering, it has 2 chips in it.

Reply to
Jan Panteltje

no.... the solder joints were probably bad from the start

Mark

Reply to
Mark

On a sunny day (Tue, 26 Aug 2008 07:03:00 -0700 (PDT)) it happened Mark wrote in :

I do not think so :-)

Reply to
Jan Panteltje

On a sunny day (Tue, 26 Aug 2008 14:39:42 GMT) it happened Jan Panteltje wrote in :

joints

So, and since it was open anyways, I took the good old soldering iron and soldered all the bad looking connections again. Plugged it in, not expecting much. Light!

So, the small coil that is in there, seemed to be the part that gets hottest, and it's pins looked sort of lose, could have been it. Could have been some of the other connections too. That sort of breaking solder joints due to temp stresses I have seen many times in TV repair, ofter with coils, sometimes with connectors, like in the Philips K12 chassis. Sometimes you get sparking at those joints, sometimes even burning holes in the PCB. And that was with 60/40 solder. So I am not blaming it on the new solder, merely on temperature. Anyways, now I have a spare bulb :-)

Reply to
Jan Panteltje

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