Need simple design for remote control of outdoor lighting system

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Yvan 20 years ago

Hello,

I would like to setup a control remote system for my outdoor lighting system. The problem is that the power supply does not support any remote control; an simple electronic device must be setup. The other problem is that I am not an electronic guru. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I purchased the remote control device that closes a relay for about 500 msec each time a button is pushed on the remote control. (This is actually a Chamberlain garage door remote opener system)

The idea is to close/open the secondary on the low voltage 600 Watt power supply that feeds the outdoor lights.

The pulse signal (temporary close of the relay for 500 msec) needs to be translated to a permanent close/open of an electro-mechanical relay that supports the 12V = 600 Watt output of the secondary.

Any idea what electronic design should be used ?

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Yvan.

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Don Bowey 20 years ago

Look at X-10 hardware. It couldn't be more simple. I use it for a variety of remote controls of lighting.

Don

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JeffM 20 years ago

Don is talking about the scumbuckets who gave us the Internet pop-up ad.

I suggest that you give your money to someone with less sleezy business model.

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Phil Allison 20 years ago

"Yvan"

** That will be *some* relay.

Rated for 50 amps continuous with a 500 amp surge capacity for switching on cold lamps.

** One that switches the AC supply, for a start.

Look for a "latching relay" which will change positions on the appliciation of a pulse.

........ Phil

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Chris 20 years ago

Hi, Yvan. Newbie questions are also generally well-received at sci.electronics.basics.

The device you're looking for is called an impulse relay. When the coil is energized, it initially does nothing, but when the coil is de-energized, the relay contacts switch state. If it was closed, pulsing the coil will open the contacts, and if it was open, pulsing the coil will close them.

They're a little tricky to home brew for a newbie, so it might be best just to buy one. I'm assuming you want to use 120VAC to control things here. You might want to start with the Tyco/Potter&Brumfield S89 Series. Their part number is S89R11ABD1-120, and is sold by Digi-Key as their P/N PB586-ND. It has a 120VAC coil, .250" faston connects, and can switch up to 15 amps.

Now lighting loads have high inrush current, and the initial surge of current as the lights are turned on will definitely be in excess of

15A, and possibly several times that. For longer service, I'd recommend you use the impulse relay contacts to drive a small definite purpose lighting contactor rated for this load, which should be easily available at any electrical supply house.

I hope this has been helpful. Good luck with your project.

Cheers Chris

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John Fields 20 years ago

Assuming that your power supply is simply a transformer, with a 12V secondary supplying 600 watts to the lamp load means that if you want to switch the secondary you\'ll need to use something that can handle 50 amperes steady-state and can hot-switch 10 times that current until the lamps heat up. Anything you find is going to be pricey, _plus_ you\'ll still have to implement the alternate-action thing. A much simpler plan would be to switch the primary, where the switch would only have to carry 5 amps at 120V, using something like: http://www.kussmaul.com/091-98-12.html

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Spehro Pefhany 20 years ago

If you buy a Stanley RF remote you get a little box that you can plug the transformer into, and a keyfob controller. Cheap aind it works. I use mine to manually cycle power to networking equipment.

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

"it\'s the network..." "The Journey is the reward" speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

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Fred Bloggs 20 years ago

It will be simplest to mod the remote control receiver. Scan and post a schematic to abse.

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Rich Grise 20 years ago

Or, if you don't have a Stanley store in your neighborhood, ;-)

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In case that's wrapped, here's a

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tiny url:

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Cheers! Rich

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JeffM 20 years ago

I like your style. Despite http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:zwopVK10YkUJ:tinyurl.com/preview.php+requires-cookies-*-*-*+want-to-see-where-*-going+before-going-to-the-site It's nice to see the original link--with TinyURL as only a backup.

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Rich Grise 20 years ago

http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:zwopVK10YkUJ:tinyurl.com/preview.php+requires-cookies-*-*-*+want-to-see-where-*-going+before-going-to-the-site

Well, I like to be as inclusive as I can, so to speak. :-)

Got Options? ;-D

Cheers! Rich

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Yvan 20 years ago

Hey, this is a very nice group!

Thank you very much all!

Best regards, and have a very nice summer. Yvan.

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Yvan 20 years ago

Hi group,

Thank you all for your answers and for your time.

I is clear now that I should switch the primary @ 120 Volts. Much more simpler.

But I still have one question. I already read that closing the primary may create peaks of potential on the secondary. I do not want to change bulbs all the time.

I understand that the lighting system is mainly resistive right ? Do you foresee problems if I open/close the primary (that is, the 120 Volt input) ?

Thanks Yvan.

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ehsjr 20 years ago

Low voltage lighting is normally switched on/off on the primary side of the transformer. The fact that you do it with a remote switch doesn't change things.

You can use an X-10 / Smarthome remote appliance module to swith the transformer on/off on the primary side.

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Ed

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Need simple design for remote control of outdoor lighting system

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