LG hombot robot vacuum cleaner disassembly

You showed the TS75 track saw. That is NOT a cordless tool.

And the time spent doing this is? You *really* shouldn't take up this, even as a hobby. You *will* hurt yourself.

ohn Larkin

ies will die in a

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no I haven't stalled a saw that would be pointless, I back off when I can hear it bog down

ok, I'm dense, please explain in what direction that force will be?

-Lasse

Cutting live wood with a circular saw is *not* a good idea. First, the pieces aren't round and worse, aren't uniform. When cutting dimensional lumber, you can clamp the piece so it doesn't move. You can't (easily) do that with branches. The chances of pinching the blade are greatly increased and kick-back is a real possibility. That can really ruin your day.

The Makita isn't much different than operating a cordless screwdriver. It was quite safe - as safe as an work on a ladder. The saw won't cut much more than cedar siding, though. Even with a good blade, that's about all the 4" blade can cut. ;-)

If you don't have the tools to do a job safely, don't do it. Missing fingers (or worse) aren't fun.

Then you're silly. A RAS is *far* more dangerous than a table saw. Neither are to be used without a large pile of caution but physics is working against you with a RAS. A compound slider is much safer but it's not really comparable to either.

Riving knife? That's basically a splitter on steroids. It keeps the kerf open so the wood doesn't pinch the board. The difference between a riving knife and a splitter is that the knife adjusts to the height of the blade, so can be used for non-thru cuts. They don't damage the wood in any way.

If you're talking about the "blade guard", it's purpose is to tell you that your fingers are getting too close. Your eyes should be telling you that. ;-) Part of many blade guards is a splitter and anti-kick plaws. I rarely use the guard myself, and prefer a separate splitter and plaws (removes is seconds). I like to see what I'm doing, also.

Plaws only "mark" the wood if they're needed to save your bacon. Marking up the wood is a small price. OTOH, I find it simpler to just not stand in the path of potential projectiles. ;-) BTW, I had

*many* more such problems with my RAS (5, that I can remember) than my table saw (0). The RAS hasn't been used in well over 20 years. One day I'll put it back together.

Good grief. The rail has nothing to do with it.

So you admit that you're lying, now.

Ever hear of "kick-back"?

****** Power is NOT torque! ********

You couldn't hold onto a

If the motor shaft were welded to some big object, it would be hard to hold the saw. But the reaction torque is mostly applied to the wood being cut.

1/8 HP is silly.

--

John Larkin                  Highland Technology Inc 
www.highlandtechnology.com   jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com    

Precision electronic instrumentation

A lot, for an electrical engineer. I've also done, and do, a fair amount of metal machining, mills and drill presses and bandsaws, too. A bandsaw is more dangerous than a circular saw.

You *really* shouldn't take up

Haven't so far. My worst tool accident was cutting my finger with a hand hacksaw. Band-aid level injury.

--

John Larkin                  Highland Technology Inc 
www.highlandtechnology.com   jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com    

Precision electronic instrumentation

Yes, that's what I'm talking about.

And a moment's inattention or misjudgment can result in permanent injury. Metalworking tends to be safer, IMHO.. you never get near the sharp bits during operation.

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

--
"it's the network..."                          "The Journey is the reward" 
speff@interlog.com             Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com 
Embedded software/hardware/analog  Info for designers:  http://www.speff.com

I won't have a vertical wood bandsaw. I have one of these

You put a chunk of metal into it, start it, and go get a coffee. It shuts itself off when it cuts through. Makes a bit of a racket, but it's a lot nicer than the way a hacksaw sounds when I'm the one doing the sawing. ;-)

They're like $250-300, courtesy of Chinese manufacturing. Throw outthe blade it comes with, and put a nice Starrett bimetal blade on it, and it's ready for work.

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

--
"it's the network..."                          "The Journey is the reward" 
speff@interlog.com             Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com 
Embedded software/hardware/analog  Info for designers:  http://www.speff.com

No I did not. I linked to this one:

Which is why you don't stand directly behind the table saw, right in the path of any projectile.

That makes sense.

The chassis seems pretty itense. Are these made in house or to order or are they start as an off the shelf product?

We did the design, and send the drawings out to a sheet metal shop.

All the sheet metal bits together cost about $180, with PEMS and such.

--

John Larkin                  Highland Technology Inc 
www.highlandtechnology.com   jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com    

Precision electronic instrumentation

******Power is torque X RPM! ******** Like tools have similar RPM, so...

Without reaction from the wood, there is little reason for power.

Wrong.

At least you've admitted that you've lost the argument.

Yes, you did.

Utter nonsense. A bandsaw will not kick-back. A circular saw (skill, table, or RAS) certainly will, and when it does it spits things at high velocity, if you're lucky. If you're not, it can suck fingers into the sharp bits. Bandsaws do not have any failure mode that will pull you into it or throw things at you.

That attitude is just asking to lose digits, or worse.

Behind the fence is the safest place to be. ...and *never* reach across or behind the blade.

A universal motor is a work horse in a small package.

At 13 amps you are getting 2 HP.

However, they like to eat up brushes, not very good for a constant speed application and is important to keep a load on them..

We have 2 HP vacuum loader systems at work and those that have the universal motors, you can hold the motor in your hand.

Jamie