Hot blade

Is there a commercial product that consists of a 2 or 3 mil thick stainless steel blade that heats to about 300C and can be used to slice into junk like epoxy for example?

If not, what's the correct and modern and cheap way to drive about 10A DC at something like 200 or 300mV, and regulate the temperature of the load? Assuming there's no thermistor or other sensor. (I imagine finding such a sensor that'll fit in the gap will be tough).

I need to cut "blind", so instead of a heated ribbon, I will use an elongated U and drive the ends of the U. It won't be big, about 0.5 inch long. So about 1 inch total length, and maybe 100 mils wide on each leg of the U.

I didn't find electrical data for shims because I suppose that isn't what shim stock is typically used for.

The thinnest razor saw I can find is 8 mils thick. So that's why I'm leaning towards something weird like this idea.

I'll pick up some SS shim tomorrow, it's cheap by the inch.

Reply to
a7yvm109gf5d1
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Cut a blade or 10 from a cheap set of feeler gauges?

Reply to
Dennis

It's not DC, but why not use a soldering gun? They're already designed to put lots of current through their business end at low voltage; if you have enough length your shim stock won't even melt before your eyes.

It's certainly cheaper than (say) a 10kHz switcher driving a step-down transformer with a mondo secondary winding.

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www.wescottdesign.com
Reply to
Tim Wescott

temp regulation might be done by measuring the resistance of the cutter, either while powered, or more easily during no power moments with a chopped psu. This does however mean some secure electrical conncetions, eg silver soldering or brazing.

I'd be tempted to drive it with ac direct from a transformer, and switch the transformer primary with a triac.

NT

Reply to
NT

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Many thanks,

Don Lancaster                          voice phone: (928)428-4073
Synergetics   3860 West First Street   Box 809 Thatcher, AZ 85552
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Please visit my GURU's LAIR web site at http://www.tinaja.com
Reply to
Don Lancaster

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Have Fun! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

They make razor blades that will fit soldering irons.. That should do what you need.

Jamie

Reply to
Jamie

Thanks but none of these are 2-3 mils thick. They also don't regulate the temperature, the tip will be at some gradient away from the core. I want the blade itself to heat up.

Reply to
a7yvm109gf5d1

A good scalpel blade will usually be 15 mils or more (milli-inches, about 1/3 mm) if it has to be hand-driven, so it won't break. In stainless steel, or at elevated temperature, it'd be thicker.

The phrase 'junk like epoxy' indicates this blade will be jammed into unknown compositions, and that just makes it worse. Two mil material (maybe similar to disposable razor blade sharp bits) can only be useful on soft stuff, and with some kind of support structure.

So, bake the whole blob of epoxy to 300C and use a real blade.

Reply to
whit3rd

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