Grounding an aluminum enclosure to copper pads on a PCB

SPC??? Is that from your seamstress days, Mary?

Weld shrink wrap? You're getting desperate.

The type of solder does not appear to be at all important, as long as you have the right flux. (search for laco aluminum flux.) I bought the flux and a few 'fancy' solders from McMaster-C and then grabbed different pieces of Al from the scrap bin, I could 'tin'/ wet every piece of Al with every type of solder. Besides different melting temps I didn't notice much difference. As John S. found you can solder to Al foil without much problem. I have no idea what the long term properties of the joint are. (I've had a few pieces on my lab bench for ~1 yr. they look the same.) Nor do I know what nasty chemical fumes I'm making.

Still being able to join to Al is nice.

George H.

Cute:

--

John Larkin         Highland Technology, Inc 
picosecond timing   laser drivers and controllers 

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com 
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 09:52:31 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Gave us:

Did you have some huge problem performing a google today, chump?

It has to be one of the most simple I have ever seen!

Everyone here can now tell for certain, that it is you whom has been out of the loop for decades. That term has been around that long, and I'd bet Franklins against doughnuts that they (all the rest of the engineers here) are all familiar with it.

Only feebs like you, pretending to have knowledge and experience has a problem, because your lack of knowledge and experience makes itself glaringly apparent when you make stupid cracks like this one.

Having problems making subject and predicate agree, ghetto boy?

Price your spool of SPC against the 3" section he needs and see how cost effective that is.

It's been one idiotic suggestion after another from you, just go away.

On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 18:31:02 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Gave us:

It isn't about weather, idiot. It is about oxidation. Weather tight" and "gas tight" are terms the industry uses concerning mated metallic surfaces, particularly of dissimilar nature.

Go back to school.

On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 18:31:02 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Gave us:

I referenced the type of lug he should use. Two spots of weld filling the lug holes would affix it fine. Angled lug would even allow performing the crimp of the wire after attachment.

Here is a one hole version..

On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 18:33:19 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Gave us:

100' spools of teflon wire all day long cheap as hell. Even can go to the mil surplus and find it even cheaper.

Fine strand, or standard count. both cheap.

Either way, you still lose.

Well how much are they, loud mouth? You're kinda shy on detail, but it doesn't bother you a bit because you're a complete fake.

That might go for gas tight but not weather tight, hence the two different tights. Being wrong doesn't bother you a bit because you're a complete fake.

I successfully soldered regular copper wire to Aluminum bar, by scratching off the oxide under a drop of light machine oil, with a pick, razor blade, needle file and/or a steel brush, and soldering, still under the oil. One such connection is about 10 years old, is in regular use at about 10A and works fine.

Is that steel or aluminum? That's a dumb way to connect a chassis GND, cannot be removed nondestructively.

Sorry, Paul, I said solder when I meant flux. I bought mine from a welding supplier off of Ebay...

It has the consistency and color of honey.

On Sat, 15 Nov 2014 21:28:06 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Gave us:

Idiot! HE is the one who already said that the wire is being incorporated INTO the chassis permanently.

You illiterate, retarded bastard.

now what kind of lug he's using.

ng

ntPage=2

annot be removed nondestructively.

You're the only idiot around here, and you prove it ever time we pin you do wn to something specific. Every fiber of your existence is cheap second rat e trash, you're the junkyard (your house) piddler, all you know is the hard ware aisle at Dollar General. Go away, and stay away.

That is so nice to hear. Thanks. You should try the Al flux.

George H.

I talked to a guy at a company that does CCA (copper clad aluminum) wire and he is sending me a sample. He said to use nitric acid to remove the copper cladding from the end that needs to be welded to the aluminum housing and solder the copper clad end to the PCB. Apparently I'm not the first customer he's had with this issue.

CCA is more used in large gauge wire because of the cost savings and there is really no point in a large about of copper in the middle since current flows on the surface.

I wonder if brazing might be an option.

--
Les Cargill