DRL

Just light up the normal driving lights, thats what I did. You can get fancy and light a single light (truck?) not sure if theres a standard. You just want to be seen.

Cheers

Nedavno Martin Riddle napisa:

Yes I can, but where is the fun in that? :-)

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Two solutions:

1. Buy the BMW DRL module from a dealer. Easy solution, doesn't damage your car.

1. Use a diode from an ignition feed to the high-beam (or low-beam, if you want) lamps. This is the way that GM does it (with a few other bits and pieces such as a delay to allow easier starting.)

Don't use resistors.

Nedavno PeterD napisa:

I can not do that, it's 21 years old car, and I think that wiring harness has to be changed, fuse - relay box...

I knew that (and that's what I have now, low beams as DRL, but I like how high beams look as DRL, and if used with full power, I might dazzle oncoming traffic at dusk or dawn. So I want to use high beams at 80% or

Why? That was BMW original DRL solution for some markets.

You don't say where you are, but if you have 'access' to Canada then look at the solutions that are/were offered there. They implemented DRL requirements and older vehicles required retrofitting. You may (probably) could get a universal module...

With a diode in the high-beam lights, you have a circuit very similar to GM's system. This system didn't cause problems with dazzled oncoming traffic, so IMHO you should be OK there. Ii could create such a system in a few minutes with a relay and a couple of diodes. The relay is used to kick the circuit off when the lights are turned on, the diodes are used to prevent back-feeding the ignition system from the lights. Not terribly complex.

Probably was, and it would work, I just find that so many people who shove resistors in to circuits such as that fail to consider the heat/power in selecting and mounting the resistors. Diodes are easier to handle, but that is just my opinion... A typical high beam light draws about 55 watts (if you have not changed from factory) and that's about 4 amps, total 8 amps for both lamps. A 10 amp diode, properly heatsinked/mounted would work.

Nedavno PeterD napisa:

I am in Serbia, and perhaps I could get 'access' to Canada (lot of online stores do not ship to Serbia), than there is the question of our customs...

I thought that if I post my question here, someone will come up with a link to simplest solution for switching regulator, that is easy to make, uses elements that are easy to find. As I understand they do not generate a lot of heat, and that's probably what BMW did for the model after mine:

I do not want to say that GM is wrong :-), but I do believe that high beams would dazzle oncoming traffic at dusk or dawn.

I already have factory wiring for the fog lights (that I do not have), and I can use that. Besides, I an not bad with wires, I added electric windows and a/c system in my car, I guess I can get DRL-s to work without disturbing something. :-)

Switching regulator would probably be better.

I already have made something similar, I added relay that switches low beams on with ignition on (via unloader relay).

I just thought that high beams at 60% or 80% would be a better idea, but now I am not sure, I got this link from Australian group:

"Another problem with dimming of halogen lamps is the fact that the halogen cycle works best with the bulb and filament at or near specific optimum temperatures. If the bulb is dimmed, the halogen may fail to "clean" the inner surface of the bulb. Or, tungsten halide that results may fail to return tungsten to the filament."

For automobile headlights it is a matter of switching between filaments, due to the necessary change of beam direction.