Controlled Outlets

Is the 400 watts continuous or have you applied the fridge's duty factor? ie when it is actually cooling and using that 400 watts for maybe 40% of the time?

Reply to
John S
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The reported wattage is, of course, a circuit-load maximum number, not an average. The so-called 'energy star' numbers say that 768kWh per year is at the high end for 22 ft^3 refrigerators.

My electricity (under $0.10 per kWh) wouldn't pencil out to that much savings.

Reply to
whit3rd

te that hosted a distribution of GNU ARM tools, gnuarm.com. Eventually the site fell out of date and I let the name lapse.

rk,

enough

'trickety

need the mega-blast ultra fast protocol requiring liquid cooling. My units use either 6 or 10 watts depending on which one I use or around $0.50 a mo nth.

p or monitor it. It retains it's settings internally. That much I verifie d before I bought it. I still need to verify two things. It ideally will save the settings in non-volatile storage and if not, default to always on after a power fail.

f static about how this will never work. Then you turn it into a pissing c ontest where I have to prove it will be worthwhile?

watts to 725 watts. Mine is older, so I'll go with 400 watts without the d efrost heater. That would be a max of 1.6 kWh each day in the summer peak period or 2.4 kWh per day in the rest of the months. Sooooo..... 1.6 * 12

0 * ($0.34476-$0.03827) + 2.4 * 240 * ($0.17273 - $0.03827)= (768kWh tota l) $136.30 theoretical max savings in a year.

I don't know how often it is on, that's why I said this was a max number. But I also didn't factor in the lack of need for the defrost timer. Turnin g off the fridge will almost certainly eliminate any ice buildup on the eva porator coils. If it doesn't, there certainly is no worry about spoiled fo od. Easy enough to find out. Remove the defrost timer and see how it goes .

The point is even if my max is 10x high, in roughly a year it will have pai d for the timer. I think the payback for buying a new fridge is on the ord er of 2 or 3 years.

Rick C.

Reply to
gnuarm.deletethisbit

watts to 725 watts. ..... 1.6 * 120 * ($0.34476-$0.03827) + 2.4 * 240 * ($

0.17273 - $0.03827)= (768kWh total) $136.30 theoretical max savings in a year.

average.

gh

ings.

That is the whole point of the matter. I switched to a rate that is lower most of the day, but is higher, much higher, during the peak use time($0.03

827 and $0.34476 respectively). This will save me money when charging the car during non-peak hours and pay for having a 240 volt, 90 amp head end in stalled. Then it can put a full charge on in a very few hours and always e nable any trip I wish to take! :)

Rick C.

Reply to
gnuarm.deletethisbit

I did some testing on the unit. It measures power used by the load. I'm n ot sure it is very accurate though. I will need to do some calibration tes ting.

It does remember the state it was in and the program it was given when powe red off and back on. So it will handle the job of surviving power outages unlike affordable mechanical timers. It may require an Internet connection to get the correct time though. Some documentation says it gets the time from the company servers. The programming may be done through the servers as well. That's ok for the most part, but we have had power outages where the power comes back on but the Internet access does not. I'll need to loo k into how this impacts the unit's programming.

Rick C.

Reply to
gnuarm.deletethisbit

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