1. Home
  2. Electronics Design
  3. charge controller

charge controller

I live off the grid in Puerto Rico and have 1600 Watts of solar cells charging a 24 V battery bank. Unfortunately we don't have quite enough power (I need my computer and 200 Watt tv, and wife needs her dishwasher and washer and dryer). I purchased a 1.5 kW boost buck transformer that I have wired for 240V in and 32V out (50 V open circuit)that I send into a full bridge rectifier array. The literature for my M60 outback charge controller seemed to indicate that they could accept this current source (from my generator when I want to top off the batteries), but to make a long story short, it won't work and I checked with several of the other solar controller manufacturers and they won't guarentee that their units will work either. I need the other half of a battery charger. How about an ultra simple charge controller using power fets (I have 4 nice ifrp460 on a heat sink) to give me 27.2 float charge voltage limited to 40 amps. I would be happy to pay someone to design this and even happier to pay to have one built.

Reply to
skcscuba
Loading thread data ...

Computer - use a laptop.

TV - get one that runs on 12/24 volts.

Dishwasher (see Wife)

Dryer (electric???) - try a clothsline.

Luhan (Former RV dweller)

Reply to
Luhan

Why doesn't it work? Is it because it is a pulsating DC supply? Then, hook a (large) capacitor across the bridge rectifier output. Something like

10,000 uF aluminum electrolytic should do the trick.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Elson

That would mean a huge dissipation. Assuming you'd get an average DC of

40V or so at the bridge rectifier under 40A load that means about 13V need to be dropped. This translates into more than 500W of continuous dissipation. I've been in Puerto Rico and with the hot climate you guys have that may not be a good idea.

I don't know your setup but something to consider might be a good quality battery charger for 24V truck batteries. Another alternative might be a big 28V switch mode supply from old mainframe computers, plus a monstrous diode. They used to be available at scrap dealers cheaply because nobody wanted them. Some of the 24V versions could be adjusted up a few volts.

Dryer: You can convert many of those to propane.

Dishwasher: Consider a few loops of 5/8" drip system tube on the roof to pre-heat the water. Think about skipping the dry cycle and propping the door instead.

Heaters are typically the main power hogs in both units, at least in ours.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
Reply to
Joerg

ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.