I have just received a prototype PCB that I need to cut accurately to size (double Eurocard). This is well beyond my poor hack sawing skills so I am hoping there is someone not to far from me (Holt, UK) who has a band saw or something similar that I can use.
Help?
Cheers
Ian
Didn't find your answer? Ask the community — no account required.
J
JB
Is that Holt, nr Melksham, Wiltshire?
JB
I
Ian Bell
It's Holt near Cromer on the North Norfolk coast.
Cheers
Ian
J
JB
That's buggered that then!
JB
S
Spehro Pefhany
Find someone with a shear and get them to cut it. There will be zero kerf. FR4 is abrasive and will quickly dull the blade, so don't be surprised if they don't like doing it too often. I have half a dozen places within cycling distance that have showrooms with metalworking shears set up.. maybe you could ask for a demo.
Hmm.. I wonder if anyone makes a shear with a tungsten carbide blade..
J
Jim Yanik
"JB" wrote in news:i435r8$btt$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:
is it possible to RENT one?
do you have any local equivalent of Craigslist?
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
D
Dennis
Other replies are correct, its very hard on saw blades - my small bandsaw generates sparks cutting FR4 pcb material...
Another option that I use is block the pcb between a couple of pieces of scrap wood in the vice. Rough cut to size with a hacksaw. Then sand to size on a linishing belt or sanding wheel. Use a dust mask.
T
Tim Williams
Gee, I'm afraid to tell you but if you're that bad with a hacksaw, you're going to be only slightly less dreadful with a bandsaw. I suggest bringing a beer or two (payment) and let them do it...
Tim
-- Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk. Website:
formatting link
S
Spehro Pefhany
At least you won't lose any fingers with a hacksaw
A
amdx
I would clamp a piece of angle aluminum or iron to it, use this as a guide to keep your line straight, start slow with light pressure and use a box knife to put a deep score in the board. If needed, do it on both sides, it will break clean at the score. Done it many times, you might need to change the blade once if you decide to flip the board. Then sand to square the edge. MikeK
J
Joel Koltner
--->
formatting link
"Just call me Mr. Butterfingers!"
I've found that even dull shears actually still cut FR4 pretty well; sometimes it's preferable to a saw.
---Joel
T
TTman
How come the pcb manufacurer didn't cut it to size?
J
Jim Yanik
"Tim Williams" wrote in news:Nhc9o.15530$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe09.iad:
I believe that using a bandsaw is much easier than using a hacksaw. the bandsaw is doing all the muscle work,and you just guide the workpiece.
With a hacksaw,you have to be applying muscle to the back and forth action while trying to keep the blade straight and cut a straight line. IMO,that's harder.
He will need a bandsaw with the correct blade,however,and enough throat depth for the workpiece. cutting fiberglass will dull the blade faster,too.(if you cut a lot of it)
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
J
Jim Thompson
I've had reasonably good success using a hacksaw to _score_ the front and back of a board... providing you're trying to make a straight cut :-) ...Jim Thompson
| James E.Thompson, CTO | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona 85048 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |
Spice is like a sports car...
Performance only as good as the person behind the wheel.
T
Tim Shoppa
For prototype use - why not just pull out a good pair of industrial- duty hand shears and cut it to size that way?
Cutting PCB with a hacksaw I agree is a PITA. But a good pair of shears will do 1/16" G-10 and similar just wonderfully. My favorites by far are McMaster-Carr 7102A15. And they are a true joy to use on nearly any non-brittle pastic sheet: polycarbonate, delrin, PVC, etc. as well. Get a good pair and you'll wonder why you ever wasted your time and effort using saws for any plastic under 3/32" or 1/8" thick.
Some claim to use heavy duty paper cutters for slicing and dicing PCB but I've been unable to do it well with this method.
Tim.
L
linnix
I have used thin PCB (
S
Spehro Pefhany
Sometimes it's nice (and useful) to be able to put them in the case.
I like combining milling with v-score so you can get mostly clean edges (V-scored edges are nasty).
T
Tim Williams
I can scissors cut thin stock (~0.03", just shy of 1mm), but it's a pain to do it by utility blade. Often the cut doesn't go deep enough and I end up peeling the laminate apart instead of snapping it. Probably cheap stock anyway.
1/16" boards are impossible to score (I'd be at it for hours), and difficult to shear. I don't like bending the stock as much as shears do, it can weaken the laminations (probably better quality than the thin stock). I've done it before. I prefer sawing, which leaves an edge that sands clean quite easily, not like the torn edge of sheared stock.
Tim
Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk.
Website: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms
R
Rich Webb
I prefer the 1/32" (0.031) for prototypes & homebrews as well, for the reasons stated. But I wonder if the "normal" 1/16" 0.062 FR4 would cut well with a Fein MultiMaster or one of the recent clones? Either scoring a break-line with one of the round blades or just cutting with one of the bi-metal cutters. Have to give it a try ...
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
T
TTman
I prefer to get it made the right size in the first place.... bit differenet if you brew your own :( That's a real PITA
Join the Discussion
Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
Didn't find your answer?
Ask the community — no account required
Report Content
You are reporting this content to the moderators. They will look at it
ASAP.