I've dabbled before:
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Concept, but not built. Needs more work anyway:
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The biggest downside to pentodes in a switching converter is, they don't conduct in reverse like MOSFETs. Think SCRs with voltage input and no latching. This makes constant-current inverters much more attractive than constant-voltage. (Assuming you can generate the constant current in the first place -- since we're already talking tubes, a massive choke, say 10H
200mA, would be an appropriate approximation.)
Recieving tubes no longer hold any records on current or voltage capability: high voltage MOSFETs of substantial ratings are available as cheaply.
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A few 2500V devices cascoded will give far better ratings.
Note that sweep tubes are only rated for peak voltages under hard cutoff (Vg1 = -200V or whatever). I don't know what happens under forward bias at that voltage, but the inevitable ion bombardment probably isn't friendly to the cathode.
The other big downside to a pentode (or tetrode) is, cathode current is controlled firstly by grid voltage, and secondly by "virtual plate" voltage. On a triode, this is just plate plate. On a tetrode+, the screen grid (and, by even weaker effect again, the plate proper as well, hence the large but still finite plate resistance) serves this purpose. Of note... cathode current, in a tetrode+, is barely determined by plate voltage at all, whether positive or negative. So, what happens when the plate voltage drops into the saturation region? All that current that used to be flowing into the plate gets sucked right up by the screen grid. A few miliseconds later, said screen grid evaporates in a flash. Umm, yeah.
There is no simple analogy of a screen grid among semiconductors. Due to the positive backwards-transconductance (change in plate voltage --> change in screen current), static positive feedback can be implemented with a single tube, no transformer (or spooky effects like secondary emission in true tetrodes) required.
The most obvious "duh" solution, which I used in the two above examples, is simply limiting screen power with a resistor, and bypassing it with a cap to maintain reasonable AC performance. This isn't bad for a single ended example with positive saturation voltage, but probably isn't going to work as well with reverse voltage (attempting to turn the tube on, while the plate is negative, will simply discharge the screen bypass cap, then when plate voltage reverses again, screen voltage will be too low and the tube will simply 'wheeze' and not saturate properly).
One can envision various approaches, like minimal bypass, or none at all (downside: screen voltage swings around, so Miller is back with a vengance), or various sorts of passive (diode?) or active (zener / gas tube / bootstrap tube / etc.?) clamping strategies. All of which cost more tubes (or high voltage semiconductors).
Oh, and for a totem pole / bridge, you only have "N-vacuum" devices to choose from, so all voltages (grid and screen) must be bootstrapped or isolated.
Which isn't too bad, I suspect. A floating +/-150V supply, referenced to the cathode, could provide plenty of screen bias (positive, with current limiting / clamping / whatever as chosen) and grid bias (negative, with transformer coupling, gain and drive). The screen power would be substantial (watts), but nothing extreme as gate\\\\grid drives go. The heater, by the way, also needs to be cathode referenced (give or take only
200V), which suggests rather more like 30W than 3W of isolated power. Just toss more windings on the DC-DC... (On the upside, the heat can be RF, no need to rectify and filter it.)
Tim
Seven Transistor Labs
Electrical Engineering Consultation
Website: http://seventransistorlabs.com
wrote in message
news:dbdc7dee-b02f-44f3-ac93-fb87bdf4918c@googlegroups.com...
Tube based PWM at about 150 kc. (hey, it's tubes so kc is right...)
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/29948706/tube1.jpg
The reason I depict R1 as going to the plate is because it technically
must. In this app the load might be on the ngative side. That is, like in
a totem pole arraingement.
It's obvious what a screen grid does kinda, but I am not so sure. I am not
sure exactly how to run this. I want maximum current and the ability to
accomplish PWM at 150 kHz. I know the tubes will not be cheap of course.
the reason for tubes is that I want about 5 kV output. I lso know this is
insane, but so what.
Z1 keeps the thing from melting in the absence of excitation of course. I
don't need to pull a Sony with this type of components for a damn open 15K
resistor way in the other side of the thing. that much is fine acually,
what I don't know is what to do with the screen grid.
If I just connect the screen to the plate that is like a triode right ? If
I lower the screen voltage from there what happens ? It has something to
do with the gain. I don't want to have to pump these things with more
voltage than they put out. I am already going to find T1 because it may
have to take the full output voltage.
This is how the rest of it looks :
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/29948706/tube2.jpg
As you can see, to make a sceeen supply separate makes for a few problems.
I do not intend to go through what it takes to make for example this :
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/29948706/6as7_2a.bmp
One of them in stereo would best be done with like three power
transformers. Count me out.
Now they still do make tubes right ? ofr audio purposes for one, but that
would be no godd for this app because no output tube could handle 5 kV.
tisis in the realm of a TV horizontal output. Actually more like maybe the
tubes used in linears for CB radios. Well not legally, they take ten meter
ham jobs and retune them a bit. (that part for our overseas folk who might
not know what "breaker one nine" means)
Anyway, the exact purpose of this thing is not important. I need to know
how to most efficiently use the tube. Figure a pentod power tube like
maybe a 6JE6 (??) or something like that. 6MJ6 maybe ?
At that point, bias the screen like I did, or tie it to the cathode,
anode, no node or what ? Of course I want it to conduct like all hell to
keep it more efficient. At the same time I need it to switch fast and I
don't need any strange ions floating around in there. (or whatever)
One other question, related but...well, the plate voltage will not be
pulled negative from the screen voltage will it ? Or will it ?
Thanks. Ideas ? Anything but calling me a lunatic. I get enough of that
from the locals...