Alco- I wonder what's the story here

I never warn stubborn hardware like that. I just sneak up on it with a blue wrench & a small pipe wrench. :)

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Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to 
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

If presented with that here's what I would do: Fit the bottom nut if required, then thread and screw the D washer down the shaft until it reaches the flat section with the pin facing upwards, then fit it to the panel and put the top washer and nut on.

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I repaced the head gasket in a Toyota Crown around 2002 sometime it was a SOHC 4 Cylinder petrol engine, which accoring to wikipedia makes it a SR-U engine, 1979-1983, so about 30 years old.

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That would defeat the purpose of the "D" washer.

how so? pin goes in the small hole, flat goes on the flat...

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MTM106DPC.jpg

I expected someone else would figure out the assembly procedure.

?-)

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But the thickness of the washer won't allow it to fit between the 
threads of the bushing, and the flat protrudes past the inner diameter 
of the thread, so how are you going to thread it down the bushing?

Well, ok, I remember the Toyota Crown. That is almost a dinosuar nowadays (a very nice ride though) and probably that one had several

100k miles on it. It also depends on how it is driven. For example, there's people who start their cars and then roar away full blast. That slowly ruins the engine.

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Regards, Joerg 

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

that more to do with bearings and such not getting oiled properly and tolerances not quite right when engine is cold

I blew the head gasket on a corolla once, but that was just me be being stupid, it was an old banger so it had the usual corolla disease, most of the fins on the radiator was rotted away so one sleepy morning it got too hot and blew a gasket

-Lasse

That D punched washer is not to be used with that switch. It is packed in with the switch just like the other 250-odd 1/4" bushing switches Alco makes. The flat is to hold the switch bushing from the rear while the front nut is tightened. What is so hard to see about that?

-Tom

A lot more things usually happen. Many cars experience piston slap where the pistons slosh a bit more while cold. There are also other things where, if you burden a cold engine with almost full power, one heats up much too fast versus another part. This is also why piston aircraft pilots do not like it when they are instructed to descend into the pattern very fast. It cools down the engine quickly while still running at 2000-3000rpm and causes a lot of wear.

What are you guys doing to your cars? :-)

One of our cars is a 17 year old Corolla. Nothing in there has rotted out, looks like new. What happens for some strange reason is that the pH-value of the coolant goes extreme. Then it needs to be changed before that can cause damage. The Mitsubishi is only one year younger and also rides and looks like new.

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Regards, Joerg 

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

and much of that boils down to tolerances :P

on F1 cars they run oil and coolant through an external heater so everything is at working temperature before they start the engine

it isn't rotting from the inside, it's those thin metal zigzag shaped ribs that corrode away from salt and bugs and what not, it doesn't leak it just doesn't cool very well

that and the piece of copper inside that starter that powers it is about the only thing that goes wrong with corollas

-Lasse

But a Corolla ain't a Formula 1 car :-)

Out here there is rarely any salt used and California bugs don't have corrosive blood :-)

We just had that starter contacts go on ours. This one still has the starter in the back so I could not reach, had the shop do it.

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Regards, Joerg 

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Does anybody still use punch pressed aluminum instrument panels? When instrument panels are machined now'days does anybody bother with the expense of putting in such keyways?