On Sat, 27 Jul 2013 15:55:41 -0400, Phil Hobbs wrote: . . . English cars that leak oil rock. ;)
Alco- I wonder what's the story here
The Rover V8 was a GM derivative. The Triumph Stag wasn't, AFAIK.
IMHO, the best British engine, ever, was the Jaguar straight-6 twin cam. Would keep going with all sorts of things wrong with it. That leaked oil quite nicely, and I don't think I ever heard one with quiet timing chains, but it would still be running when the car had rusted clean away.
The last really good Triumph was the TR3A. Designed before the Leyland merger.
"Real" Rovers had an inlet-over-exhaust straight four, or six. Like Land Rovers Mk I, and II, and some IIIA. Again pre-Leyland.
I always fancied a Sunbeam Tiger, with the Ford 289 cu. in. motor, but my income never seemed to catch up with the price. God knows what they go for, now.
Well, no. Why do you ask?
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
-- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 USA +1 845 480 2058hobbs at electrooptical dot net
The hardware that came with the switch may just be a standard bag of stuff they ship with every threaded bushing switch. I'm thinking that this switch is not used with an anti turn washer; the flat is for holding the switch behind the panel with a wrench while you tighten the dress nut.
-Tom
It was the Oldsmobile team who made the first GM all Aluminum V-8 (215 c.i.) and it was in the Olds F-85. It ALSO ended up in the Buick Special.
They sold the design pans to British Leyland in 1963. They may have had a different corporate moniker at that time, but the first car it went into was the TR-8.
With Al alloy and casting tech so far more advanced now than it was then, GM should do a respin of that lower displacement V-8 with 4 valves per cylinder, etc.
IIRC, here are all Al 350 Camaros available today.
I don't think so. If that were the case, there would be two flats, one for each side of the wrench as in coax connectors.
It's also easier to just grip the switch body when tighening the nut. There's a risk of breaking the connection between the threaded part and the switch body, but that's usually fairly strongly crimped.
I'm also having trouble visulizing the contorted shaped wrench necessary grab the milled part of the bushing needed to avoid the switch body. That's not much of a problem with a SPDT body, but some big, like 4PDT, will really get in the way.
Easier to track then a SED thread.
SED is dead...
Thats what that SAID. Even missed the sound effects.
The things they could have done with the simple PC Speaker port...
Is it oil rock or rock oil? :-)
Rock on... On rock... Baba Ram Dass
OilRockOn
OnOilRock
RockOnOil
RockOilOn
OnOilRock
OnRockOil
OilOnRock
Essentially, he is saying that being environmentally irresponsible is a cool thing.
Oil on our rocks...
Ooops... that didn't sound right... I'll quit rambling now. ;-)
[...]
I can only come up with two reasons for putting a flat onto a switch:
1) To lock it to a chassis, either by a U-shaped slot in the chassis or via a U-shaped washer, or 2) To add a slotted or U-shaped spacer between the switch and a chassis/frame.Either could explain the "flat", but neither does a _good_ job of explaining why only one side of hte switch is flattened.
If you don't want to conver the D-shaped washer with the peg into a U-shaped washer via tin snips, you might consideer submitting pictures of the switch and D-washer here:
but only after after reviewing it all in light of these:
Frank McKenney
My parents owned an Austin Healy when I was in high school. It was almost like driving a go-cart. (Tons-o-fun!) Cute sound too.
George H.
You needed a 'Blue Wrench'.
That makes it a lot easier to set them on fire when they piss you off, one last time. :)
That would have been one approach, but being a physicist I'd have preferred to hit the stud with liquid nitrogen.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
Try reusing that stud after the liquid nitrogen, though.
If I got it cold enough to become brittle, it should recover when it warmed up, no?
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
Not if it snaps into little pieces. You can heat threat the stud and reuse if, if it had no other damage. I've had to remove studs that way, but I preferred to install a new set, anyway.
Freudian slip?
Bad eyesight and an overly aggressive spell checker. I can't change the font size in the compose window, but I am using an 18 point font in the read window.
It conjured up an image of waving an acetylene torch at the stud and saying "You'll get some of this, if you don't do as I tell you".
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