6 volts DC for 2 inch TV

Dec 15, 2006 10 Replies

I have a 2 inch Sony Watchman tv that runs on 4 AA batteries. I want to use it in the car during a trip this spring.



Is it better to buy a "power supply" that plugs into the cigarette lighter and generates 6 volts, OR



to run it with 4 batteries, measure the amperage, calculate the effective resistance of the TV, and then make my own power supply that plugs into the cigarette lighter, that would consist of a plug, a jack, a wire and a fixed resistor. The resistance of the resistor would be the same or nearly the same as the calculated different of the tv.



My experience is that fully charged AA batteries are usually 1.56 volts x 4 = 6.3 volts, which is exactly half of the resting voltage of fully charged car batteries, 12.6 volts. I won't be watching tv when the car is running, but maybe I would sometimes run the car to charge the car battery, or even to warm the car** Then, iirc and I can measure it to be sure, the voltage goes up as high as 13.2, half of which is 6.6. Also, the label on the back of the tv says that it uses, on average, 1.6 watts, but I will measure its current current use and not rely on that.



Is that too high for a tv that is meant to run on 6.3? If so, I'll be glad to make the resistor bigger and thus the voltage lower.



It also has provision for turning off the picture and only getting the sound. I guess it would use less current then and I would calculate a higher resistor to be needed. Maybe I should just use a resistor substitution box and see at what resistance the tv works best? Or should I buy a device made for this purpose. I have a spare cell phone charger, but I don't think it wil put out a full 1.6 watts.)



Thanks


**On my best car trip, I slept in the car for 7 or 8 nights in a row. It was very comfortable but it was a much bigger car, so I'm not sure I can do even one or two nights this time, but I want to get some use out of my 2 inch tv, which I got as a gift sort of, and which will be obsolete in 36 months or so. For tht reason alone, I'd like to sleep in the car rather than a motel. Or probably more likely, in a tent in a state park, in late winter or early spring, in the South, where I guess it will be warm enough. If I stay in a tent, I'll make a longer wire.

If you are inclined to email me for some reason, remove NOPSAM :-)


Are you familiar with load dump? ISO says that voltage can be 270 volts. SGS Thompson defines it at 80 to 100 volts. Your design will make load dump irrelevant. Cheaper inverters hope you never learn why they are cheaper - while forgetting to include load dump protection.

No, I'm not. I googled load dump and read three of the sites, but I picked wrong I guess and didn't learn much.

If you are inclined to email me for some reason, remove NOPSAM :-)

I'd not bother anyway. It's a red herring now. Might have been relevant 50 years ago.

*Don't squat with your spurs on * Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Far from. Alternators are still as inductive as they were, and a read of National's app notes explains the whole thing and gives load dump proofed circuits. Your kit may survive if you ignore it, but I'd say the risks are significant.

NT

I'm trying to think how many home made electronic additions I've got on the old car - but it's lots. Things like a PDC. Electronic charge indicator (useful with Lucas alternator) Timer for rear window. Better controller for the central locking. 'One touch' electric window mods - and sunroof too. And plenty others (I have a new car too and want some of the toys on the old one and it's a hobby).

And none of them containing anything other than the usual smoothing and decoupling. All using just basic op-amps, timers etc. And not one has blown up. Perhaps it's because I didn't know about 'load dump' Now I do they'll all start failing...

*Why is it considered necessary to screw down the lid of a coffin? Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound.

50 years ago there were no semiconductors in a car's electrical system to worry about.

If your battery develops an open cell, or the cable falls off you'll lose lots of electronics. Go to news:sci.electronics.design and tell them that "Load Dump" in automotive electrical systems is a myth. They will tell you just how wrong you are.

Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida

You might well. Which is nothing to do with load dump. You'd probably loose electrics in a fire too.

Strange it's never been a problem in practice in all the years I've been playing around with cars.

*Drugs may lead to nowhere, but at least it\'s the scenic route * Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound.

its precisely load dump. You've got an inductive alternator feeding a battery, the battery disconnects... the result is predictable enough.

electrocution has probably never been a problem for you either, but its real nonetheless.

NT

You ever measured the voltage available from an open circuit alternator?

Another red herring.

*If you try to fail and succeed, which have you done? * Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Go ask sci.tron.des if you want to know

NT

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