TEC and current driver chips for laser?

Hello Rene,

Current-summing into the thermistor node? That would work. But a separate input would be nice. Doesn't have to be a low offset opamp, a quarter of a LM324 would do because it would typically be in a regulator loop.

Wow, that is quite low and comparable to the 7.75% sales tax in this part of California. Over here it is different no only by states but also between counties. AFAICT much of the rest of Europe is paying a painful

15-20%.

Oops, somehow I had mentally tied it to the Euro. Maybe you guys could sell some more of the good stuff to boost the CHF. Chocolate, watches etc.

That makes sense. In industrial designs and prototyping like in my case we don't need any GUI or LabView but most university labs would certainly welcome this.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
Reply to
Joerg
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We just have to be careful and get the A type. The first page says 1% tolerance which sounds good as long as the note in the brackets isn't overlooked. Further down where the real meat is the spec says 1.20V to

1.30V for the non-A. That computes to 8% or +/-4% which can be a bit of a white knuckle ride if you want to run an LD close to the edge.

Of course, one can always add a "throttling circuit" that begins to rob Vsense current when the monitor diode reaches the spec limit for laser power.

Then there are those extra functions that the fancier laser diode controllers exhibit. For example a diagnostic routine that polls the photodiode and issues a safety shut-down or alert when it detects a flaw there. Then there is the degrade/fail alert for the LD itself. All that is pretty handy when stuff is mounted in a remote location.

I often go a step further by replacing a boat load of expensive specialty amps with mundane 2N3904 and BSS123 transistors. There is usually some scoffing in design reviews when the first schematic hits the projector screen.

The LM317 is actually not that cheap. For a CW transmitter a three-cent transistor can do wonders.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
Reply to
Joerg

Oh, I am sure everyone in the trade understood. I like the LM324 a lot. Low quiescent current and the input CM range includes the negative rail. Very practical for battery powered gear.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
Reply to
Joerg

Joerg wrote in news:pgH7h.4834$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com:

Nicer than CA3140? If so, I must do some rethinking.

Reply to
Lostgallifreyan

Joerg wrote in news:AeH7h.4833$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com:

Regulating the regulator? :) I can see that might make the LM317 begin to look like an odd solution...

True. I guess if we can now get IC's with all this in one package it makes sense to get what we can. I think when I decided against the Wavelength Electronics module there weren't many dedicated IC for this, at least, I didn't know of any.

. .

True again, but I like the ease of use, the fact that for many tasks you can start with the same device whose character is predictable and reliable. Above all, unless you're in major production, the costs of laying tracks for discrete parts and soldering them all is far greater in both money and time, than using the LM317. I think of it like the electrons, protons, neutrons.. while we can reduce to quarks and get great power and understanding, things like the LM317 and the LF412 exist at that magical point where costs increase if you go either up or down scale, once context is taken into account.

Reply to
Lostgallifreyan

Don't know about nice but the LM324 is certainly cheaper. By a factor of around three IIRC.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
Reply to
Joerg

The modulator I built with it kind of did that. I was feeding the Vsense pin and that could probably be construed as "regulating" it. With most LD applications there is a need to keep the light output constant. It's also a much safer method not to exceed the LD limits when you start it up at grossly differing body temperatures. As long as you ramp up from a lower current.

IIRC the ADN2830 showed up arond 2003, others were a bit earlier. The downside is that these chips are expensive.

Plus with the LM317 you get a device that can stomach a few watts if heat-sinked, no need for an extra FET.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
Reply to
Joerg

I think the LFCSP packages with the exposed paddle should be soldered to a square of metal which is connected to the ground plane by lots of vias. It is important that the paddle is really soldered properly. When soldering them by hand, I put some flux on the paddle of the IC and then tack down some pins of the device before soldering the ground connection from the back side of the PCB. I feed solder down one via and make sure it comes up the other vias, that way I can be pretty sure it has wetted the IC package. Other people do it in different ways and the assembly contractors seem to have no trouble with them, I think they use solder paste. The thermal resistance in the package would be pretty low because the paddle is just a square of solid copper with the die attached to one side and the PCB soldered to the other side. (or at least that applies to the ones that I have seen, though those were not really high-power devices.)

Chris

Reply to
Chris Jones

Joerg wrote in news:hkL7h.16717$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net:

One liberating thing about light show devices is the output is aimed to get the strongest beam possible at any set of conditions. Thermistors in the current sensing network help here, by dramatically reducing the effects of large ambient temperature differences. Slow ramping is done with that memcap I put in parallel with the low ESR ceramic and the tantalum I mentioned earlier. It's almost a perfect circuit, as the LD limits the voltage to guarantee the memcap never sees too much. Everything assists everything else like a perfectly tied little Gordian Knot. >:) The downside is, getting ANY kind of modulation in there is a no-no, which is why I can't really advise on a mod for that. I got lazy and distracted to other projects, but I do intend to work on this again.

As an aside, there's another good feature about this LM317 current reg thing, the thermistor allows close-to-limit CW operation despite a large change in case temperature for the whole module. This means you can supply the unit with between 5 and maybe 25 V, at least 12 or 15. That is wasteful at high values, but has one ENORMOUS advantage, heat changes like that can change the focus of an acrylic aspheric lens, providing a perfect no- moving-parts method of very fine, accurate maintenance of focus or collimation, the latter being very important for light shows, so the cost is very low, and the performance, for that purpose, is very high, as good as it can get.

And no doubt subject to change... That's another reason I like the LM317. It's not going to force anything on me that I can't control. I doubt they will ever go out of fashion, wither. :)

Indeed. That focussing thing I mentioned above is a nice exploit of this capability.

Reply to
Lostgallifreyan

Actually, the NTC's have their own inputs, even their own ADC. The pot has an input of its own at the cpu internal ADC.

Rene

Reply to
Rene Tschaggelar

Just in case the LM317 is too close to the lower rail, you can always have a series resistor together with the laserdiode.

Rene

Reply to
Rene Tschaggelar

Rene Tschaggelar wrote in news:45603a99 snipped-for-privacy@news.bluewin.ch:

I don't understand this. If it was a voltage regulation, it would arguably be too far, needing a negative on the sense pin to get it down to zero, it couldn't get 'too low' otherwise. All of which means nothing because it's current, not voltage, that must be controlled.

I actually do use a resistor in series in my drivers, I forgot to mention it here, not sure why. I use a 1 or 2 ohm series resistor before the parallel caps across the diode, to make them filter out spikes more easily.

Reply to
Lostgallifreyan

Hello Rene,

That would be a good spot to connect the external prototype circuitry to. A tie into the thermistor node is always a white knuckle ride. If it shorts for some reason the TEC might attempt to create a new ice age or a smelter, depending on which way it goes because the uC would have no way of knowing what happened.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
Reply to
Joerg

Hello Rene,

Usually it's not too close because the LD drops a good 2V so you could even use a BJT to control the Vsense node. Just in case the five cents for a BSS123 are too much money ;-)

One challenge that is left is to monitor the LD current. That would require a diff amp structure and a wee series resistor. Often MPD level monitoring will be enough though.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
Reply to
Joerg

IIUC you'd still have almost a volt from Vsense (ADJ) to GND. Enough to hang a transistor to rob some current.

If you had one between cap and LD you could modulate :-)

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
Reply to
Joerg

Joerg wrote in news:ZM%7h.8349$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com:

I remember that there's a circuit for current control right to xero that suggests a 1.25 bandgap reference to solve that, but if you're only modulating down to 90% of Imax I think it won't matter. That Adj pin will always be north of the LD load, for want of a proper way to say that..

Nice, I don't know how much filtering I'd lose with that, but it's a nice simple starting point. I was hoping to do it by modulating the sense input though, if it allows a single active part while still offering enough filtering to be safe. Either way, it seems I'd risk something nasty getting through, so maybe separating the supply and mod into two systems is the only way to control things easily. But if I can do it all with one LM317, I will.

Reply to
Lostgallifreyan
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That boils down to the question of which pathologies a LM317 without much output filtering could cause. Since it is a rather simple device maybe SPICE plus some lab bench jerking of the device can answer that.

One method that has worked for me in the past is electronic protection (in this case probably some kind of precise crowbar on the LD side) plus a cap that makes sure it can keep things muffled well enough until that protection has definitely kicked in.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
Reply to
Joerg

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