Component ID?

That sounds pretty convincingly like a diode for sure.

9423 is almost certainly a date code meaning week 23 of 1994. Does that sound likely ? None of the other stuff helps.

Can you post a picture somewhere, it's very likely to be fairly easily identifiable from that. I'm suspecting a 6 amp rectifier diode type myself.

Graham

On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 21:31:40 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com put finger to keyboard and composed:

FWIW, plugging the number "22059733" into

suggests that the part is made by LTC which I would normally expect to be Linear Technology Corp. However, I wouldn't usually associate LTC with diodes.

The following Estonian (?) discussion talks about an "LT 9636

22059733" diode. This appears to confirm that 9423 is a YYWW date code:

Someone mentions a transient voltage suppressor diode (TVS) but I don't know if that's just a guess or a definite ID. Another person mentions a 6-10A diode.

FWIW, here is a Chevy wiper/washer wiring diagram:

- Franc Zabkar

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Thanks for the reply, Eeyore.

Yes, a date code of week 23, 1994 sounds perfectly reasonable for a

1995 Chevy. I've posted some pictures of the diode, the PCB, and the component that it was connected to. They're available at .

The broken diode was connecting a +12 VDC power source to pin 2 of the blue component in the last picture. The +12 VDC power source passes through a 25 amp fuse before coming into the device. The other pins of the blue component are connected as follows:

Pin 1: One of three terminals on the wiper motor (not the ground terminal) Pin 2: The broken diode Pin 3: Two transistors. I'd have to draw a whole schematic to describe where these transistors lead. Pin 4: The cathode terminal of a much smaller (physically) diode that connects to the same +12 VDC source as the broken diode. This diode can be seen in the pictures to the right of the label "MIN COATING". Pin 5: Ground

Don't know if this information provides any insight, but I thought it couldn't hurt.

Thanks, Joe

Thanks for the info and wiring diagram. That's more detailed than the one I have in my book.

-Joe

I just noticed that the number on the blue component is very similar to the one on the broken diode. It's also similar to the PCB part number, 22122142, and the wiper control assembly part number 22155169. Just an interesting observation.

at

On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 16:21:23 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com put finger to keyboard and composed:

The blue part is a 12V relay. Pins 3&4 are the coil, and pins 1, 2, and 5 are the contacts. The relay switches the positive terminal (1) of the wiper motor between +12V (2/on) and ground (5/off). The two transistors control the relay, probably in a wired-OR fashion.

Diode CR6 (?) needs to be rated for the full motor current. It is probably just a high current rectifier. The diode attached to the relay coil is there to protect the transistors from back EMF. A 1A rectifier, eg 1N4007, is normally sufficient for this purpose.

- Franc Zabkar

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On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 17:18:33 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com put finger to keyboard and composed:

They are probably house numbers belonging to General Motors, or maybe ITT Automotive.

- Franc Zabkar

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Please remove one \'i\' from my address when replying by email.

Thank you for the explanation Franc. You say that diode CR6 needs to be rated for the full motor current; does it need to match the motor current exactly, or is the motor current the minimum rating I can use (i.e. if the motor uses 2A, can I use a diode rated at 2A or higher)? There's a 25A fuse behind the +12V attached to this diode, so should I assume that it could potentially see up to 25A ?

Thanks again, Joe

On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 09:37:12 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com put finger to keyboard and composed:

If the diode is connected between the +12V supply and the motor (via the relay), then it must be able to carry the full motor current under all possible conditions, including startup on a dry windscreen. A 25A diode would be a very safe choice, although I suspect that it would be gross overkill. You will probably find that rectifiers with the dimensions that you have provided are typically rated at less than

10A, probably only 6A. A Motorola MR751 or MR752 are two likely suspects (9mm x 9mm). These have a 400A surge rating, and 6A average forward current. Semikron P1000 series diodes may be a better choice, eg the P1000D is rated for 10A and 200PIV.

- Franc Zabkar

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Please remove one \'i\' from my address when replying by email.

Thanks again, I appreciate the advice.

-Joe

Hi,

I tool a look at your foto. It is a diode. Which exactly is not so important. Use any diode that can handle currents above 6 ampere. Preferrably over 10A. Voltage that of your car (12 or 24) or higher.

I do not have the circuit diagram, but made electronics for wind-shield wipers myself, very long ago. I remember that there are two ways to let the wipers return to the down-position after you turn them off. You can either use a relay with multiple contacts, or you can use a higher-current diode to let the motors run to the down-position. I think that it is this diode.

If the wipers were blocked, the wiper nmotor will draw a strong currents up to 3 to 6 times the normal current, and that may have destoyed your circuit. I saw in your foto that your relay burnt out too. It can also have been a short-circuit. So replace the diode and relay but do not install/use/test them before you tested the wiring for short-circuits!

Regards, Pieter