Thanks. You just explained why my 8050a was acting rather oddly on AC. When I replaced the battery pack, it magically started working correctly. I was guessing a loose wire or component, but never suspected that anything required a working battery: I guess I should have read the manual.
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Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
You're welcome. I wish the Fluke 8920/8921/8922 true RMS meters (20 MHz upper limit) were as easy to repair and calibrate. I used one at Microdyne, so I bought one for myself a few years ago. Being able to set
0 dB where you want it, makes gain calculations easy.
True enough, Fluke (for one) doesn't appear to mind that folks post their older technical manuals for obsolete equipment. I've hosted their manuals for almost two decades with no issues at all (Fluke 9010 and
9100 stuff). Data I/O is another, in fact most of the respectable technical tools company seem to implicitly support the dissemination of their older info to keep these devices running...
John :-#)#
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(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Is it Option 1 and duz it work on AC? Mine wouldn't work on AC until I replaced the battery pack.
Here's what's involved in running it without a battery and replacing the display with LED's: Or, if you don't mind overkill, here's another LED and a graphic display transplant:
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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