Whirlpool washer lid switch

My Whirlpool Atlantis top-loading washing machine has stopped working.

After researching a bit in the manual and on-line, it looks like it's a problem w/ the lid switch, because it runs fine if I press in on the little plastic spring-loaded "pin" inside the slot where the lid meets the back of the top rim....but I have to keep pressure on the "pin".

*Photo of washer top with lid removed (see the hole near the bottom center)
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*Photo close-up of the hole (inside is the plastic "pin")

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Apparently the back of the lid itself has a little plastic "nodule" sticking out which is supposed to press the "pin" inwards whenever the lid is closed.

*photo of the "nodule" as it protrudes from back of lid
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The "nodule" doesn't seem to be making sufficient contact/pressure on the "pin". When I press the "pin" in with a stick, the machine starts running. I don't see any rough edges on the "nodule", so it doesn't LOOK like anything broke off. The "nodule" DOES seem a little loose.

*Photo from inside of lid showing how the "nodule" is connected to the lid
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I havent worked on an appliance like this, but I can't afford to spend a fortune on a repair person if it is a simple fix I could do myself. Advice, anyone? (I don't get much response from alt.home.repair, so I hope it's okay to post this here.)

Greg

Reply to
gplantam
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Also I found this little plastic thing in the laundry room. I have no idea if it came form the washing machine. It is a about a third of an inch wide.

*photo
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Reply to
gplantam

The first thing that comes to mind is to check that the two screws are tight and holding the switch unit (behind) in position. If that's the case you need to get inside and see why the 'nodule' isn't pushing the 'pin' far enough to trip the switch.

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Regards - Rodney Pont
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Reply to
Rodney Pont

Try

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they have a nifty part search engine so you can find the parts in question and see what they're supposed to look like. They have good prices on replacement parts too, I've never had a problem with them.

Reply to
James Sweet

Try this site out....

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Reply to
Deke

Somebody is going to hate this answer! If you are not a complete idiot and typically do not put your hands inside the machine while on high speed spin cycle, simply force the safety switch to be on all the time? I used to service computer, etc with interfaces to various systems which had multiple safety interlocks, which typically the technician would be forced to disable before working on the equipment. Or take the machine apart and adjust the switch so it is acuated when the door is closed.

Reply to
James Douglas

I completely agree w/ you and will share your advice w/ somebody in my household. I solved it by inserting a screw behind the switch assembly, thus securing it closer to the lid nodule where proper contact can be made when the lid closes. I don't know why/how it had moved out of position in the first place.

Thanks, everyone.

Reply to
gplantam

I would agree that the two previous posters suggestions would work. This same thing happened to our Maytag and a clients Maytag. On ours the switch was accessable from the outside between the tub and the outer shell. I was able to remove the two screws and replace it. Cost was around $7. Richard

Reply to
spudnuty

Me too...certainly the best solution...and not all that uncommon to be able to replace the switch with minimal or no disassembly. OTOH, I've bought second-hand machines with a completely missing switch, which I operated for years with no mishap.

jak

Reply to
jakdedert

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