WD-40 to clean electric contacts?

Aside from cost, I think Deoxit is the best spray to use. I'll continue to use Deoxit, but I do wish I could find a cheaper product for non-critical applications, such as the dashboard switches in cars. I used to use Radio Shack's contact cleaner and it was a good product, but now that R.S. is gone, I have not found any replacement. If anyone on here knows of a cheaper contact cleaner that is worthwhile, I'd like to hear about it. (and where ot buy it).

My personal opinion about WD-40 is not very good. PB Blaster is far superior for loosening rusted bolts and it lasts a lot longer too. I have not bought WD-40 in years, I have not found any real use for it. Yet it costs more than PB Blaster, even though it's an inferior product. WD-40 was more or less the first product of it's kind, and it gained a reputation for its name, so now the name is what sells it, except for people like myself who learned that it's not worth much. From what I have heard, WD-40 is mostly just Kerosene.

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** At least that sounds honest.

** Hard to find uses if you don't have any... ** A trusted name plus stocked damn near everywhere is the real reason. ** Same as your personal opinions .... ** Like that stupid one.

.... Phil

At least PB Blaster actually displaces water instead of floating on water.

Greg

The above is the MSDS for WD40. And, yes, it is mostly ultra-refined kerosene. Track the CAS numbers to show that.

What it is not is Stoddard Solvent, although it has been accused of being that in the past.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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** So no longer Kerosene at all, a myth WD-40 strongly deny.

** If you consider WD-40 to be a 5:1 mix of a Naptha like solvent or White Spirit and light mineral oil - you are very close.

Unlike most of its similar competitors, WD-40 is sold to the *public* at corner stores. So it suffers from being too commonplace.

.... Phil

I don't have an existing opinion on the terminology, but because I was curious I looked it up.

According to How Stuff Works,

aliphatic hydrocarbons from C1 to C4 are gases.

C5 - C7 are naphthas, also used in dry cleaning solvents, so maybe Stoddard solvents is accurate.

C7 - C11 are blended to make gasoline.

C12 - C15 is the kerosene range.

Lubricating oils are longer carbon chains, and when we get above C20 we get solids, waxes.

The MSDS for WD-40 is not real specific. It says aliphatic hydrocarbons 45-50%, LVP aliphatic hydrocarbons 12 - 18%, petroleum base oils

Look up the CAS number.

That will state exactly what each part contains.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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** Trying to disparage WD-4O by pointing out it is a mixture of a common solvents and light mineral oil is ridiculous.

Its the *physical properties* of the mixture that make it work. The only way to know how well is to try using it on a variety of jobs over a period of time.

I have done this long ago so am happy to recommend its use and comfortable that most will either have some on hand or can get it cheaply almost anywhere on earth.

... Phil

I think PB Blaster will melt polystyrene. Not sure about W40.

Greg

I've used it for many decades and always have a can nearby. It's not the optimal choice for all applications but most of the time is "good enough."

Reading the MSDS made it clear to me that it's a pretty variable mixture of various chain length hydrocarbons; surely one batch differs significantly from the next.

Oh, and it's far better on locks than graphite.

And terrible on an airgun. (at least on a springer)

%2BxkBs%3D

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** The solvent in WD-40 damaged does not damage any of the plastics commonly used in electronic or electrical components.

In normal use, the solvent evaporates in 10 to 15 minutes having done its job of softening the contaminating material so merely operating the switch, pot or connector completes the cleaning operation.

.... Phil

Im satisfied with the description of mineral spirits and light mineral oil. I laugh some say fish oil. Upon investigating, there seems to be a trace of bug oil. I think it was a variety of stink bug. LOL.

Greg

Just a heads up, don't use any isopropyl alcohol containing cleaners on coal based plastics (Mainly old eastern block products.) I had just repaired a camera and sprayed the meter pots. The plastic gears instantly turned into goo.

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Carbon tet is awesome. It'll take out grease stains that nothing aqueous will touch.

Of course you have to use it in the open air!

TCE is almost as good and much much safer.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 

http://electrooptical.net 
http://hobbs-eo.com

It also makes a good perfume for women who are interested in gearheads. ;)

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

(Stainless welding flux is another good one.)

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 

http://electrooptical.net 
http://hobbs-eo.com

IPA makes a mess of acrylic too--it crazes the surface instantly.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 

http://electrooptical.net 
http://hobbs-eo.com

So does DEET. Keep it off your motorcycle gauge faces.

I have been using Naptha cleaning fogged headlights for a tempoary fix. Actuall Seafoam mix.

Greg