Removing dried WD-40

apply some more, then wipe it down?

I have an old teletype machine that the previous owner did the same thing to. It finally go so bad it would not print. I mixed up some Ed's Red gun cleaner and it cleaned out all the old gunk. Then used some good grade of oil to lubercate it.

It is kerosene (which I understand part of wd 40 is) automatic transmission fluid, acetone, and something like varsal in equal portions. Just Google Ed's Red for the mix.

======================

** Takes only an hour for the solvents to evaporate leaving behind ordinary clear mineral oil.

** More WD of course. The petrol based solvent does the trick.

The only way I know it will wind up stuck on is if the items gets hot - like the pins of vacuum tubes - and that takes years.

** WD claim it "free sticky mechanisms" and it damn well does - like with locks exposed to the weather.

That typewriter was jamming or rusted and WD freed it up.

..... Phil

Using a siphon sprayer, I sprayed, in sequence, mineral spirits to cut through the WD-40 gunk. Then hosed it with Simple Green to finish de-greasing it. Followed by Distilled water to flush out the Simple Green and finally denatured alcohol to get rid of the water.

I'd say it came out pretty clean.

--
"I am a river to my people." 
Jeff-1.0 
WA6FWi 
http:foxsmercantile.com

Looks good. Will you leave it dry or lube it? If so, wet or dry?

John

Oh no, it needs to lubricated. I'll be using this:

--
"I am a river to my people." 
Jeff-1.0 
WA6FWi 
http:foxsmercantile.com

a) WD-40 is 100% volatile - over time. Please look at the MSDS if you have any doubts. b) The sticky -slimy skunge left behind when it is (under) used is the old hardened lubricant that has now been evenly distributed throughout whatever was sprayed.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Looks like a Model 15 teletype machine. Yep:

It's clean, but now you get to lubricate it from scratch. I used to work on those when I lived in Smog Angeles, but haven't done any rebuilds in the last 50 years. Model 15 lube and adjustment manual:

The original lube was allegedly whale oil based, so you're not going to find any of that. My guess(tm) that's why the oil turned to tar or varnish. I think if you dig deeper, you'll find more varnish. You may also need to tear down the main shaft. I didn't have much luck with ultrasonic cleaning and had to use acetone to get rid of persistent varnish.

I recall using either light clock oil or sewing machine oil which have the advantage of not evaporating and having a stable viscosity over some temperature range. It's been a long time, so check the forums for the latest suggestions. If you need any help from me, forget it. I'm busy untrashing my house after moving the entire office home.

Good luck.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

Alcohol can etch aluminum, marble, limestone, travertine and certain granites and it can remove plastics and various forms of carbon (like from valves).

a} Please read the MSDS for WD40. It is 100% volatile. Really. b) The nasty, sticky skunge 'left behind' by WD40 is not from the WD40, bu t what was re-distributed by the WD40 all over everything. c) How to get rid of it: There are various solvents that are quite effecti ve depending on the substrate. Brake Cleaner is one. Carburetor Cleaner is another - again, depending on the substrate. There are many others. Ans the re is always the dishwasher. d) First-cause was not enough WD40 in the first place, sufficient to both d issolve and then rinse off the skunge. e) WD40 is neither a lubricant, nor an anti-oxidant, nor a cleaner, nor mu ch of anything else other than a material designed to displace water. And i t does that exceedingly well. All the other 'off-label' stuff is much like adding aspirin, chelated iron and Karo syrup to Christmas Tree water. Does it work?

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

ut what was re-distributed by the WD40 all over everything.

ive depending on the substrate. Brake Cleaner is one. Carburetor Cleaner is another - again, depending on the substrate. There are many others. Ans th ere is always the dishwasher.

dissolve and then rinse off the skunge.

uch of anything else other than a material designed to displace water. And it does that exceedingly well. All the other 'off-label' stuff is much like adding aspirin, chelated iron and Karo syrup to Christmas Tree water. Does it work?

Here's what bothers me about WD40 despite what the MSDS says. I've used it where there was no previous lubricant, and found later than it crusted ove r. I used it twice, once on an HDMI connector on the back of a bluray and the other on a micro USB connector on a wifi extender, both a bit touchy du e to contact issues. Yes, I know it's not a contact preservative but any c lean lube works fine off label. Several months later, both quit working. Removing the connectors revealed white crusty material on both the connecto r and inside the cables. I ended up using WD to flush out the crusties and then flushed out the WD with Free All. No more problems.

know it's not a contact preservative but any clean lube works fine off label. Several months later, both quit working. Removing the connectors revealed white crusty material on both the connector and inside the cables. I ended up using WD to flush out the crusties and then flushed out the WD with Free All. No more problems.

I have seen WD40 leave behind some crud also. Not sure if it was dust it attracted or what, but it was crud. Free All did the same thing to me on a piece of equipment. I do not let WD-40 in the house and use Kroil to loosen stuck bolts. I use other oils for lubrication.

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** Pedantic tripe - like every post from the trolling nutter. ** Contains lots of light oil.

** The oil layer keeps oxygen and water at bay so it does that job.

** Dissolves greases and many other things in an instant.

** Very rarely used it for that. But it does kill cockroaches pretty quick.

..... Phil

Yo, Drongo:

I waited until after Christmas - my bad. But as a New Year's present, I wish to reassure you that your position as Village Idiot is secure. You DO NOT have to compete for it.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park. PA