speaker freq response

The midrange control is, by default, what is not controlled by the other two.

Seems that that is too little, or not enough, treble attentuation.

One does not affect the other (much).

Probably milliHenries in the audio range.

I hate to say this but you might be best served by getting a graphic EQ that will give you more flexible control to achieve the sound you want.

Kal

Huh? It sounds like the kid wants lots of bass. Either because the current speakers don't reproduce the low notes, or because he equates booming bass with good stereo. So when he tries to boost the bass, he's not getting the results he wants.

Michael

By the rest of your post, you mean the other way around.

Easiest way is to add a resistor in series with each tweeter. Something about 8 ohm 5 watt should be a good start

Dave Plowman (News) wrote: > In article , > David McDivitt wrote: > > I purchased an in-dash stereo for my pick-up truck, and some cheap > > speakers. The stereo has bass and treble adjustment but not midrange. I > > have since replaced the speakers. The new ones do better, and sound > > better, but still have the same problem. High frequencies have too much > > attenuation. >

I used resistors for setting the tweeter levels but ran into a little quirk. The added resistance changed the crossover frequency but more importanly, it messed up the damping which sounded like ('cause it was) ringing. The cure was to add a second resistor in parallel with the tweeter.

GG

Being a 50year old kid is OK I guess. I got it backwards. I thought attenuate meant to increase. Whatever. I do not want any more bass.

I just want to get rid of too much high audio frequency from the speakers.

-- dgm

A graphic EQ would be overkill and I would have no place to put it. Thanks for the suggestion. I do not want to screw with it. It's just that when I turn it on, I get too much high frequency. I want to fix it so I can quit bitching about it.

-- dgm

True. I used "attenuate" inappropriately. Using resistors would mean I'd have to dismantle the speakers, or make the job overly complex. I paid $69 for the pair at Walmart and I don't want to screw them up. Seems if I put a very small inductor in series, it would lower the frequency response. The effect of the inductor would be more pronounced the higher the frequency, and less the lower the frequency, such that the difference to bass would be insignificant, but on the top end it would do what I want.

I just need a value for an inductor.

-- dgm

You guys will all laugh at me, but I 'normalized' the tinny crap speakers in my 1980 Ford Fairmont by pulling the speaker grilles off and sticking a rubber mat to the back side of it.

When I put the grilles back on, all the really 'sharp' treble was cut, and the speakers sounded a little more flat.

I couldn't tell you any numbers or anything to that regard. I guess I was just lucky.

In your case though, I would agree with the suggestion of a graphic EQ. This will let you dial it in exactly like you want it, and even let you 'adjust' it for certain CDs, like those that are all compressed and clipped to hell.

Good luck.

-phaeton

Do a little math. XL=2*pi*f*L.

Set XL to 8 ohms or so, pick a frequency (f) and calculate L. The complete equation for a voltage divider is quite simple as well. Just remember XL is on the imaginary axis in the complex plane.

David

That will give me a starting point. Thanks

-- dgm

You should buy a speaker with the proper frequency response that you need. The higher the cost of the speaker, the better the response that it will have.

As for correcting the response, it will be difficult to get something that is not there in the first place!

--

JANA _____

I thought I would buy some inductors at Radio Shack and put in line with the speakers. From what I remember they are measured in henrys. But, I need so little effect I may be better off making small wire coils, instead.

To avoid much trial and error, would someone please suggest a starting point? I might buy several inductors either side of that and see what they do. Thanks

-- dgm

On 14 Jul 2006 13:59:45 -0700, in message , "phaeton" scribed:

"It" is a little ambiguous there. If "it" is the back of the speaker grille, then that's a dandy hi-stop filter! OP might take note and just stick some kind of soft material in front of the speaker cone. Maybe even the foam that is sold as speaker cover material; that stuff probably cuts the extreme highs at least a little.

If "it" is the speaker mount, then maybe the tinniness in your case was vibration of the car's panels (similar to the horrible distortion that emanates from the many poorly done subwoofer installations - crank it up and the car becomes the speaker).

I already said I bought the most expensive ones at Walmart, and they do sound pretty good. I assumed if I paid that much I would get rid of the tinny stuff. It's better but not gone. Besides, I have not seen any place where one can pick and choose the frequency response for car stereo speakers, and I would not want to spend anymore money.

I haven't had a chance to do it yet, but I'm sure a slight inductor in series with the main speaker wire will do the trick. When done I will report back.

-- dgm

I have the opposite problem, my computer speakers buzz when I play some modern movies with music in them (Walk The Line (Johnny Cash)). The bass is boosted because I guess "everybody has a home theater system with a crossover and floor-shaker sub-woofer". Well I don't and can't afford one because my debtors can't give me anything but static. If any of your experiments cut the bass please tell me in the group.

need.

that

report

Most sound card drivers allow you to adjust at the very least the bass and treble in the control panel.

Yes... "it" was the back of the speaker grille. Although now that I think of it, it might have been a foam mat (like sold in craft stores). It was 1996...I was young and I needed the attenuation. I can't exactly remember. IIRC they rattled a little bit when I turned the volume up, but it was much less tolerable than the icepick-in-ears situation beforehand, which (now that I remember) was augmented by the fact that it played tapes at about 150% the normal speed.

I'm not fond of the term "redneck", but I tend to have a great deal of aptitude when it comes to "redneck engineering". I can't decide if it's good or bad.

In this case, we were talking about a 16 year old $350 car with factory speakers, so no loss there.

In the "Electronics Workbench" thread, Rich Grise looked at the pic of my mess and suggested that I install shelves, so on the back of my table I've got strips of laminate flooring stacked between some housepaint cans that I found in the utility closet. Tidies up the place real nice-like, and didn't cost a thing. These things were here when we bought the house. My gooseneck pole lamp was too short if I put it behind the table (everything had a shadow towards me), so 3 minutes with a hole saw and a quick lamp pole separation/reattachment later, It's in the right spot in the inside corner of the table top.

Well, enough derailing.. ;-)

-phaeton

Put a very large capacitor in series with the speaker, where one of the speaker wires connects. The goal is to move the entire frequency response up or down without using any shunts or parallel components. You might take the speaker apart and glue all the joints, and inspect for anything that might vibrate or move inside.

-- dgm

Radio Shack only had 100 micro henry inductors. If I'd gone to an industrial electronic store I could have found more. So I placed one in series with each speaker and it worked. The tinny sound was reduced but not eliminated, and the bass was boosted even further. I had the loudness enabled, which seemed to do better drowning out the tinniness. When I turned off loudness, I got real good midrange, acceptable treble, and still plenty of bass. The treble was still turned all the way down, though. I estimate a 500 micro henry inductor would work best, since that would allow treble at other than minimum on the control. I may mail order some.

-- dgm

Are you sure the head unit is ok? It may be crappy (or broken) and putting out a "tinny" signal at no fault of the speakers. Garbage in, garbage out.