No troubles for owner then totally stopped on next disc or any others. Laser alight , cleaned lens, mechanics seemed ok, continued to not spin, but servos working. Removed the top housing over the platter, weighted with the removed magnetic top-knot over the CD and now seems to work every time - any ideas?
So does it still work when the disc clamp is put back together ' normally ' ?
Arfa
'
After an hour of working fine without prob it is now solidly stuck in non-work mode so I'll try finding a loose comp/con on the first board. Sledge servo always brings the laser to read the data track in exactly the right place, focus servo functiond but "No Disc" displayed.
Many Sony models in recent years, have suffered in this way, as a result of the flexiprint to the laser, going intermittent where it bends its sharpest, just behind the blue plastic reinforcing strip for connector insertion.
Usually, when it's bad, you can gently poke it with a long thin screwdriver, and it will start working again. I used to keep a slightly longer, slightly thinner one in stock, which used to bend more gently, and more easily. Not saying that it is this, but worth a try ...
Arfa
others.
normally
the
of
sharpest,
screwdriver,
slightly
Seems plausible, I will return to it next week, doing a repairable 35 yearold Beomaster at the moment.
others.
normally
the
of
sharpest,
screwdriver,
slightly
I did a check of that flexistrip and one conductor is o/c. I see a magnet wire bridge going in, soldered to the pcb at either end. For the archives the laser unit is KSS 213B, December 1995
-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
Ah-Ha. There's a result then ! I have tried repairing by ' bridge-around ' with wire in the past, but it doesn't seem to last long. Don't know if you have access to Sony spares ( Chas Hyde could supply them to you ). The slightly longer and thinner flexiprint that I mentioned that I used to use, is Sony Pt # 1-757-055-11 " Wire ( Flat Type ) 16-Core "
Arfa
board.
exactly
result
use,
I usually twist 3 strands together of the finest enamelled wire 45 swg or so for each connection, soldering the 3 ends together at each end. Repeated either side of the actual broken track as these are likely to fail next I agree using anything more than 40swg or so is likely to work harden and break, or whatever happens to copper.
board.
exactly
result
use,
used 6 twisted 46 SWG strands for each of the bridging conductors and player is back working, I wonder for how long before another foil track goes or my copper wiring fails. Written up and already ftp'd to
-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.