Sony Bravia solarized image

I'm repairing a friend's Sony Bravia (KDL-37V5500). The first minute after powering up the image is OK, but after the first minute the image gets solarized (whites go saturated, some parts become yellow, there is a faint red border around bright parts).

The power supply and the backlight look OK, so I suspected about the T-CON and used freeze spray over it. No changes until the local power supply IC (ROHM BD8160EFV) died in short.

A new IC is on the way, but I have two questions: - Where is the original fault?

TIA

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Saludos
Reply to
Miguel Giménez
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Freeze spray can cause condensation of water, and may cause conductive paths to appear where they previously weren't (like when getting water damage in your laptop or phone).

That can blow up things, yes.

Freezing a powersupply IC or circuit is also dangerous in that it may cause the voltage to shift, and thus the powered circuits to be blown up.

Reply to
Rob

e:

Your original fault is most like the AS15 IC. There are several variants a nd some of them are all plastic while some have a metal belly pan for groun d and heatsink. If yours has the belly pan, you must use hot air to get it out. What I do is put chipquik on the IC, if it floats off the board, repl ace with a plastic version. If it won't budge, break out the hot air to fl ow the solder under the chip. Replace with a metal back version.

As to why the other IC failed, are you sure it shorted? If the AS chip sho rts, it will put the power converter IC into shutdown. Try removing the AS

15 and see if the power IC outputs properly with no load.
Reply to
ohger1s

Thank you both for your answers.

I have a SMT air station for chip removal, and the IC has a bottom pad for heat sinking. I will desolder it when the replacement arrive. Soldering the bottom pad will be difficult, though.

The BD8160 has the inner boost FET shorted (pins 4 and 5 are shorted to ground), so the 12 V input is shorted to ground through the boost coil. There is a 1206 fuse, but it is OK.

The AS15 is after the boost diode and a series MOSFET switch, so I know the short is not in it (I have the T-CON schematic). If the board comes back to life I will check the AS15, it is easy to test because it is just an array of analog buffers.

--
Saludos
Reply to
Miguel Giménez
:

wrote:

e
s

s and some of them are all plastic while some have a metal belly pan for gr ound and heatsink. If yours has the belly pan, you must use hot air to get it out. What I do is put chipquik on the IC, if it floats off the board, re place with a plastic version. If it won't budge, break out the hot air to f low the solder under the chip. Replace with a metal back version.

shorts, it will put the power converter IC into shutdown. Try removing the AS15 and see if the power IC outputs properly with no load.

A trick to remove the original AS15 is to *carefully* grind down the expoxy on top of the chip to expose the internal die. I use a Dremel with a smal l stone wheel. With the die exposed, it's much easier to melt the solder under the IC from the top with hot air. I use solder paste with lead (stil l available) to install the new chip and it has a lower melting point than the original solder, so installing it will take less heat/time than if you used lead-free.

You have a schematic for the TCON??? Wow, it's nearly impossible around he re to get a schematic much less a block diagram.

Reply to
ohger1s

Yes. The TV set is Sony, but this particular TCON is made by Samsung, and the schematic was easy to find (IIRC it is from Elektrotanya)

--
Saludos
Reply to
Miguel Giménez

Sony never made an LCD screen for TVs as far as I've ever seen. Since the TCONs are shipped with the display, they would match the vendor for the dis play screen.

As far as schematics or datasheets, I've had some luck on Russian websites where they didn't seem available on the web, Elektrotanya included.. Just run a page through Google Translate.

Also, for reasons I don't understand, I find that sometimes Elektrotanya's own search will return nothing, but if I use the Google Advanced Search and put Elektrotanya's web address in the site box and then put in my search p arameters, I can often find a manual there.

Reply to
ohger1s

True. Not for consumer TV's. The Sony, Hitachi and Toshiba LCD panel divisions, were merged into Japan Display in 2011: The industrical displays are sold under the KOE name: Japan Display makes smartphone, tablet, laptop and medical LCD displays but no consumer TV displays.

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Jeff Liebermann                 jeffl@cruzio.com 
PO Box 272      http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
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Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

________

I have an interesting question for all of you:

What do you think of the quality/characteristics of the picture you see on new TVs on display in stores?

Reply to
Chris K-Man

They're cartoonishly inaccurate - but intentionally so. When there are 50 displays on the wall all running at the same time, the one with most bizar re colors and brightness is the one most people will pick as the best pictu re.

When setting up a new TV for home, most have a "home" or "store" or "demo" option. The home setting sets the LED array brightness to 100% by default. The store or demo mode sets it for 110 plus percent for the same reason.

I remember the time my softball team was at a bar after a game, and they ha d a Sharp Aquos 60" in default settings. The grass on the infield of the g ame we were watching that was on was a weird fluorescent green, the blacks were dark blue, and it was overly bright. One of the guys was impressed wi th that mess of a picture and asked if I could adjust his Sony to look like that. I said I could try, but wasn't sure if I could get his Sony to look that bad on purpose. He of course was shocked but when I asked if he ever saw grass that color, the light went off.

Reply to
ohger1s

:

displays on the wall all running at the same time, the one with most bizar re colors and brightness is the one most people will pick as the best pictu re.

" option. The home setting sets the LED array brightness to 100% by default . The store or demo mode sets it for 110 plus percent for the same reason.

had a Sharp Aquos 60" in default settings. The grass on the infield of the game we were watching that was on was a weird fluorescent green, the blacks were dark blue, and it was overly bright. One of the guys was impressed wi th that mess of a picture and asked if I could adjust his Sony to look like that. I said I could try, but wasn't sure if I could get his Sony to look that bad on purpose. He of course was shocked but when I asked if he ever s aw grass that color, the light went off. _______

Good call - with the grass that is!

So how can I, among many people, help turn the tide against public acceptance of such a garish factory image - be it Home or Store mod e?

I would estimate, since the mid-2000s, that millions of consumers automatically associate such overblown settings with HD and or 4K. How to educate them otherwise?

Reply to
Chris K-Man

On Wed, 25 Aug 2021 12:09:38 -0700, thekma # shortbus.edu

Someone finally bit at your troll bait. You must be so prou

Maybe by obsessive trolling on Usenet, getting maybe a single hit every three or four years? That's not a smart way to achieve your goal, but you're not a very smart retard.

Definitely by ko0k-dansing on a usenet hobby horse. Yeah, that's the ticket! That's the way to reach the masses! At least usenet trolling won't get you kicked out of restaurants and TV stores for being an obsessive douche bag.

Reply to
None

t

Dude, you need help, and I mean bad. The best advice would be to just let your hate go. Not only is that guy living rent free in your head, he's us ing your utilities at no charge. I'm serious. The only reaction you're ge tting with your trolling rants is either laughter or pity. Think about it

Reply to
ohger1s

50 displays on the wall all running at the same time, the one with most biz arre colors and brightness is the one most people will pick as the best pic ture.

mo" option. The home setting sets the LED array brightness to 100% by defau lt. The store or demo mode sets it for 110 plus percent for the same reason .

y had a Sharp Aquos 60" in default settings. The grass on the infield of th e game we were watching that was on was a weird fluorescent green, the blac ks were dark blue, and it was overly bright. One of the guys was impressed with that mess of a picture and asked if I could adjust his Sony to look li ke that. I said I could try, but wasn't sure if I could get his Sony to loo k that bad on purpose. He of course was shocked but when I asked if he ever saw grass that color, the light went off.

Why? They're happy with those crappy settings. Ignorance is bliss - let t hem be I say. Those settings are hard for me to watch, but I don't think a nyone who likes cartoonishly bad video would listen to me, you, or anyone anyway. It was the same with the "sizzle and boom" smiley face audio graph ic equalizer settings.

Reply to
ohger1s

e 50 displays on the wall all running at the same time, the one with most b izarre colors and brightness is the one most people will pick as the best p icture.

demo" option. The home setting sets the LED array brightness to 100% by def ault. The store or demo mode sets it for 110 plus percent for the same reas on.

hey had a Sharp Aquos 60" in default settings. The grass on the infield of the game we were watching that was on was a weird fluorescent green, the bl acks were dark blue, and it was overly bright. One of the guys was impresse d with that mess of a picture and asked if I could adjust his Sony to look like that. I said I could try, but wasn't sure if I could get his Sony to l ook that bad on purpose. He of course was shocked but when I asked if he ev er saw grass that color, the light went off.

___________ And the thing is, I've done so many CRT and flat screens with the patterns on DVE Blu Ray, that I've noticed a commonality in where the basic settings (Contrast, Brightness, Color, etc) end up via those patterns, that I could get almost any other TV too look the same way by memory! It's not rocket science.

It's undoing bad attitudes toward basic adjustment and calibration that's difficult - not doing the actual process.

Reply to
Chris K-Man

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