Putting a Chrysler car radio in a Ford

you could maybe look around online for an installation kit for a mid-90's Chrysler,or Crutchfield.com might be able to give you some wiring info.

snipped-for-privacy@nospammm.com wrote in news:vhmf34l6nrq8jj4akttnsrsm1g9kbq08u9@

4ax.com:

Been there, done that. :)

Did you get the security code with the 'new radio', if not, you may have problems using it. I think there are places on line you can 'buy' the security code.

Failure to properly terminate (with proper impedance) any output could blow the output circuit.

Good luck.

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bz    	73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an 
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu   remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

If you get the installation kit, and can find out the equivalent wires to cross reference them, the radio should normaly work.

Where you will have issues is if there is the requirement of communications between the computer of the car and the computer of the radio. This will apply where the radio is dedicated to the car model, and is computer controlled by the car's computer system.

In most cases the radio should be a simple device. You will have the antenna in, power in, panel lamp control, memory power, main power, and then the speaker outputs.

In some car's the speakers are high impedance for their inputs and have built in power amps, or there are external power amps for the speakers, and the radio works more like a line level receiver. Most of the time, the car radio systems are simple, and the radio speaker outputs are 4 or

8 ohms depending on the model, and it drives regular auto type speakers.

Just make sure you have compatibility, and you get the wiring correct the first time. If not, most likely you will damage the radio, or something else.

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JANA _____

Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good. I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the year or model of chrysler from them.

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs). I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V, GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup). Each plug pin is labelled.

I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1 and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd). That's 7 out of 12 wires.

Any suggestions, please ???

Thanks

Security code ????? WTF are you talking about. This is a radio, not a bank safe. Are you serious about this? I have not dealt with any of the new stuff like this. Why is a security code needed and where is it entered?

I was wrong. Now that I dragged it into the house, there are SEVEN (not six) pins on each plug. Doing a google of the model number brought it up as a 2000 Dodge Dakota OEM radio.

Here is the labelling of the pins.

FEED CONNECTOR PLUG

BAT ACC ILL PARK RF- LF- MUTE

SPEAKER CONNECTOR

RR- LR- RF+ LF+ RR+ LR+ ANT

OK, battery, accessory power, the LF- and RF- must be speakers But what the heck is "ILL" What is PARK for and while I know what MUTE does on a tv or whatever, why would this radio have a MUTE wire? Would there be a mute button somewhere else in the car, or what? And why is there both a pin labelled ANT and a standard push in antenna jack?

I'll have to check on this. It would be pretty easy to do with some resistors..

Thanks. I found the following website and it has an exact photo of the rear of this radio. HERE:

It says "Radio Pictures" above the picture.

It appears they have the plugs with short wires. I will have to contact them and see if that is the right ones.

This webpage lead me to this website link where I was seriously distracted by the photo on the page. HOT DAMN !!!!

I'd hire her in a second, but I'd help while she was under the dash, by laying on top of her to hold the flashlight....... :) I totally forgot about the radio and looked at that picture for awhile......

OK, getting back to the radio, I think that website can help, but I'm still worried about that security code now that you said it....

I think I'll just connect a 12V source via alligator clips and a few speakers and see what happens.

Why the F**K do they have to make everything so complicated these days. Please, someone take me back to the 1960s and 70s.... When life was simple !!!!

snipped-for-privacy@nospammm.com wrote in news:3u5g34pgvv2s9adjrn8nj0vggddvpnu0sk@

4ax.com:

Yep. The radio in my wifes 93 Honda isn't working right now because we need to go to the dealer and get the code. We had to pull a fuse to check something and have lost the code.

Most car radios/stereos now have a factory programmed security code. If the power is disconnected, you need to key the code in through the channel buttons before the radio will work.

This is to discourage thieves from ripping out your dash to steal your radio. They can't use or sell it (or that is the theory) because it can't be used without the code.

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bz    	73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an 
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu   remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

Illumination. It hooks up to the lighting circuit, when energized, it reduced the brightness of the display.

On the steering wheel controls, along with volume controls and controls for changing stations.

For power antenna.

This radio was used for more than one model, and not just pickup trucks.. Does it have the three band, or five band equalizer with joy stick? The five band was used in the high end models, like the Imperial.

blow

The speakers will not be common ground in this radio. Connecting them that way may blow the radio. The mystrey wire on plug 1 is probably

+12V out for a power antanna drive. JR

HOME PAGE:

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Hi!

Sometimes you still do, if you find an older car or one without a factory installed radio. I ran wiring for a car stereo in a Plymouth Reliant a few months ago. It came from the factory with an AM radio, so the only wiring I could take advantage of was for power and antenna.

These days, just about all the cars on the road have a stereo, so the wiring is the least of your worries most of the time. Wiring adapters exist to go from the factory plug to individual hookup wires for almost every popular car on the road.

Some radios (none that I know of from Chrysler) have anti-theft features that come on if the radio's electronics "think" that they aren't in the original vehicle or if the radio loses power. Others may have an external audio power amplifier.

Since your radio has the function of each connector printed on it, you're just about good to go. If your truck has suitable wiring and speakers, all you have to do is find out which lead is which. The factory service manual, an adapter for your vehicle's wiring or perhaps even a car audio sales company/installer like Crutchfield could provide that information.

At the very least, you will need to connect a ground (black wire or run to clean (unpainted, not rusty) body metal), a constantly-powered source of +12 volts (for the clock and station memories, and sometimes required for the radio to work at all), switched +12 volts (turns on and off with the key), the antenna and at least one speaker.

The lights connector is optional and you might just want to leave it unplugged. What it does is provide a signal to the radio from the dimmer switch or wheel control that adjusts the intensity of backlighting present in the instrument panel. Without this signal, the radio's own indicator lights will typically come on at full brightness.

All other leads are optional. Insulate any that you don't use so they won't short to ground. This will blow fuses or damage your radio!

It should be just fine to connect to the pins directly, although I would use tight fitting friction-fit connectors as opposed to solder, which might be difficult to apply without shorting pins and subject to breakage from vibration.

William

Hi!

Some radios (typically Delco units from GM vehicles) have an anti- theft system that kicks in if the radio loses power. I haven't seen this on any Chrysler radios.

Newer (again, my focus is on GM) radios supposedly communicate with the other computers in the vehicle and compare a copy of the VIN stored in some kind of permanent memory to what the vehicle says is own VIN is. If the two don't match, the radio locks out.

Constant +12V (possibly fused) for the clock and station memories.

Switched +12V for primary radio power

"Illumination" as in the feed coming from the vehicle's panel dimmer control.

not sure

Right front speaker -

Left front speaker -

Yes, this is for an external muting function. I'm not sure what its purpose might be as I've never seen an external "mute" control on a Chrysler sound system. It's very possible that this is something to be used with steering wheel mounted audio controls.

Right rear speaker -

Left rear speaker -

Right front speaker +

Left front speaker +

Right rear speaker +

Left rear speaker +

The pin connector is used to cue a power antenna. When the radio is turned on, +12 volts appears on this pin and closes a relay located on the power antenna unit. This causes the antenna to go up.

When the radio turns off, the +12 volts disappears from this pin, the relay opens and the antenna goes down.

This pin is usually fairly limited in the amount of current it can supply. It can also be used to cue (turn on) an external power amplifier if you have one.

The push-in antenna jack is for the actual antenna unit itself.

I can't say as I've seen that issue, and I've set up a lot of radios where only the front set of speakers were used. Insulating and taping off the unused wires so they could not possibly short out against any body metal or the radio itself has always worked more than well enough for me.

There's nothing all that complicated about this--most new aftermarket stereos you buy today have many of the same exact connections onboard. Take it slow, double check your connections and I'm sure the stereo will work perfectly for your needs.

William

Or, to turn on a remote amp.

"

Why don't you learn a lesson from them and get with the times, creepshit.

You can't make it fit fucktard, the Chrysler radio is larger than the Ford radio.

No, what you need to do is learn to use Google. \\

yeah, repost this to alt.car.audio and leave this repair newsgroup open to repair issues d*****ad.

** Posted from **

I put a Ford alternator in a Chyrsler.

Why?

Maybe an under run pulley and belt kit would have done the job.

You can put almost anything into anything with the right brackets and adapters. Guys who build custom cars will make all sorts of crazy frankensteins, been doing it for decades.

Many more recent car radios have "Face Off" security. The front panel is removable and is supposed to be taken with you when you leave the car.

That's been around for decades, in the last 10 years or so practically every aftermarket unit is detachable face, but decent ones also have a security code. It's a hassle to take the face off everywhere, I only remove mine when I park in a sketchy area, if someone does make off with it some other time, it'll be useless. Amazes me anyone still steals car stereos, they're so cheap now, I guess junkies will rip off anything that isn't nailed down and some things that are.

This was back when I was a kid and didn't have the money to buy a rebuilt Chyrsler alternator. But I did have a Ford alternator and a love to experiment. The alternator was the same size had the same mounting bolts but the voltage reg circuit was of course different. And I had to modify the bracket that allowed you to tension the belt. My neighbor had a welder and cutting torch and drill press so no problem there.

We are talking over 35 years ago. I finally found a larger pulley for the alternator from a heavy duty Delco truck alternator. The other pulley was over the water pump, and would have required custom machining. I was in the middle of nowhere, AKA southern Alabama at Ft. Rucker Army base at the time. There was no easy way to find parts back then, and the rip-off speed shops would only look for a part if you let them install it. A three dollar bearing every couple months was easier than over $250 and letting them screw with my car.

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