Maytag neptune washer motor control board resistor values needed badly, please!

I'm looking at a Model AA19680 (P/N 6 2702240) motor control board from my Neptune that had catastrophic failures of IC1, R13 & R19. I bought a replacement and installed but I haven't gotten around to repairing this one. As R19 is right next to it and burned beyond recognition, I'm afraid IC8 on my board may be history as well.

Assuming that is the same model as yours, R34 & R35 are both 75 Ohm, 5% (Violet - Green - Black - Gold) and are located near C19.

If you wouldn't mind reciprocating, what are the values for R13 and R19 on your board? I think IC1 is a IR 2101. My IC 8 is labeled "185/1/V1-14, 0392838, DP44404, K9745" and I haven't had any luck finding a source for it.

Hope this helps.

James,

Thanks for the reply. On my board, R13 is 1K Ohm, and R19 is Red, Red, Orange, Gold or 22K Ohm. However, the measured value of R19 is 11.5K. Maybe this is due to parallel circuit.

You may try digikey.com for parts. Shipping is kind of high though. You may also google for electronic component store in your area. I just found such a store in San Jose

Best Regards, P Boy

Thanks for the resistor values. From the looks of how it is connected and because it doesn't have a manufacturer's logo, I suspect that IC8 is either a custom chip or a mask programmed microcontroller. In either case, I'm likely out of luck finding one short of salvaging one off another failed board.

As I posted earlier, it is a custom chip, it's not available as a replacement part. I've toyed with the idea of writing code for a standard AVR microcontroller to do the job but I've got too many projects to attempt that right now.

James,

My board model is AA20630 (P/N 6 2713980). My IC8 is SRD210\14V\V4. It can be found from some distributors such as

I am still searching...

My IC1, IC2 and IC3 are IR2101 0048.

James,

So far, I am unable to locate my IC8, which is only available by distributors with minimum order of $150. IR2101 is available in digikey.com though.

I further discovered that my C18 (47nJ100) and IC3 (IR2101 0048), both are connected to R35, might have been damaged also.

I am thinking about getting the motor conversion kit, and have a few more questions.

1. Did you buy the motor conversion kit or just the control board?
2. Did you install it yourself or repair-man? Reason for this is regarding warranty.
3. Did you replace any other parts such as door lock assembly, machine control board, etc?
4. How long have you had your machine fixed?
5. Have you had any other problems since then?

Regards, P Boy

I got a motor replacement kit from a colleague who had received an extra one by mistake, the new motor uses a different type of tachometer so if you get a new board you have to replace the motor unless you can figure out how to convert the old one. I installed it myself since that's just how I do things and the whole machine was free anyway, it was not difficult.

That's the only repair I've done on both Neptunes and the one I replaced the board and motor on has been working now for a few months. The other one I fixed by resoldering parts on the motor board has been working longer so far. I fixed a Neptune for someone else that had the wax motor fail and take out the triac on the control board, that was a more straightforward repair as the wax motor is under $20 and nothing hard to find fails on the control boards. One of the ones I got had had the wax motor replaced already, the one I use in my house is original but I expect to have to replace it at some point.

P Boy wrote:

I performed some testing on IC3 and C18 to confirmed that they are indeed damaged.

All pins in IC3 are short, whereas IC1 and IC2 are not. C18 is short, whereas C10 and C14 are not.

IC8 (SRD210\14V\V4) pin3 to C27+ and pin4 to C27- is also short. Most of IC8 pins are short. This is very likely that IC8 is bad.

It seems like I am out of luck here :-(. I just call Sears and they have the motor conversion kit for $239 including tax/shipping.

Givin all the bad user experience with Neptune washers, I am not sure if I want to try the expensive repair. BTW, my Neptune washer looks like

I do like front load washers though. I am planning get an LG wash as seen from

Does anyone have any experiences with LG front load washers?

Thanks, P Boy

You can get the part cheaper from repairclinic.com, though it's still a bit pricey.

As far as I know, the original Neptunes had two common problems, the motor board and the door lock, the latter being cheap and easy to repair, despite Maytag insisting that the whole control board be replaced. Both of those problems have redesigned parts to solve the weakness and beyond that they seem to be pretty robust machines.

I have no experience with the LG washers, if it's the same LG that makes consumer electronics then I'd be very hesitant to buy anything from them. Still given the choice between spending $200 to fix your washer or $900 to buy a new one of some other brand, the choice would be obvious to me.

The replacement motor controller board came with a new motor cable assembly. The only differnce I could see was that the new cable assembly was about 3 inches longer than the old one.

I did the repairs my self and didn't worry about the warranty.

I've also replaced the machine control board and the door lock assembly. The one thing I really hate about that model of Neptune is the stupid wax motor that Maytag used in the door lock which when it fails burns out a resistor on the control board about 50% or the time.

Last repair was about 3 years ago and it has been working fine since.

Only with mildew on the rubber seal at the front of the tub. That is taken care of by spraying every couple of weeks with Tilex or Chlorox. There is also a bit of rust on the inside of the case near the water fill.

It burns out the triac which controls it, which also takes out the resistor. Fortunately about $1 worth of parts fixes it, I use a much more robust 600V 10A TO-220 case triac in place of the little plastic TO-92 300mA 400V one.

James T. White,

Thanks for taking the time to answer all my questions. I really appreciate that.

If you don't mind, I have a few more questions.

1. Which model of Neptune do you have? Mine is MAH5500BWW and it looks exactly like
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1.a Is yours different?

1. When did you purchase the original wash machine? I bought mine in summer of 2001. I am still evaluating the possibility of replacing the motor/board and trying estimate how long it will last after the repair.

I have never noticed any mildew on my machine. I have also performed all the board control tests and my "machine" control board seems to work fine. It visually looks ok too. As of this writing, on my motor control board, R34, R35, Q5, IC3, IC18 and the 10Amp fuse are damaged. IC18 is the part that I can't find (well cheap) :-(

1. Do you know what might cause the "motor" control board to fail?

1. Have you noticed any other difference on your replacement part, such as board layout, ICs, etc.?

2. I found from other thread that the replacement motor is quieter. It's true on you case?

Thanks again, P Boy

P.S. James Sweet, your technical information is much appreciated as well. I will consider the 600V triac if I get this thing to work again.

Mine is the earlier model MAH3000AWW and was bought in 1999.

It has been a while and I can't find the receipt, but I think my replacement motor control assembly cost less than $150, so you might check the price for a whole replacement module. I bought mine from a local (Houston, TX) parts distributor that sells to the trade. Strangely enough I was referred there by a Maytag repair shop.

Other than poor design or a batch of bad parts, the only thing that I can see that would make the MCB fail would be voltage spikes. That part takes 120VAC directly off the mains so it is susceptible.

The replacement boards looked identical (mounting and general component layout, although I didn't do a detailed comparison.

I didn't have to replace my motor. My motor checked OK with an ohmeter. Three coils of equal resistance and no shorts from the coils to case ground. I can't remember exactly how I checked the motor tachometer circuitry but it seems like the repair sheet that came inside my machine pretty well led me to replacing just the motor control board.

Mr. Sweet's advise appears sound. Just be sure that you check the datasheets for both the TO-92 and TO-220 packages and get the pins in the right places. Using a little higher wattage resistor might also make some sense.

Good luck with your repairs and let us know how it turns out.

I believe mine is MAH4000BWW and the one I gave my mom is a 4500. They share the same basic mechanical structure and electronics as the rest of the Neptunes in that series including yours. Differences are only in the various bells & whistles, the motor and main control boards are identical.

I didn't purchase either of them, I picked them up from people who for some reason decided it was better to spend $1000 on a new machine than $200-$300 fixing the one they had, in all fairness, one of them was quoted $450 to do the job but if you're handy with basic hand tools and can read directions you can easily do the job yourself. The first one I got about 6 months ago, the other was put into service in early January. The colleague who gave me the motor kit had his machine repaired in late

One of the ones I got had mildew in it when I got it, presumably from sitting in the person's garage for a couple months before they got rid of it. I wiped down the door seal with some 409 and ran a load of just a few old rags with the bleach dispenser filled and that took care of it, haven't had any return yet.

Some have said power surges, my own diagnosis is poor soldering which caused intermittent connections. This is made worse by exposure to heavy vibration in the spin cycle. In the case of the first machine it simply stopped working until I resoldered it, on the other, as often happens with TV sets and other relatively high power electronics, the bad connections caused a component to fail, which started a big chain reaction destroying most of the semiconductors on the board. The replacement board is of a completely different design, it uses surface mount parts and appears to have better soldering. It's also enclosed in a strange mounting box to protect it from vibration and damage.

See above, the replacement motor board looks completely different, side by side you'd never know they were the same thing.

Yes, much quieter, the first time I heard it I wondered if something was still wrong with my machine which has the original setup. The new motor is virtually silent, all you hear is the water sloshing around and occasionally a bit of a "sticky" sound from the belt rolling on the pulley. I do sort of like the jet engine spooling sound mine makes when it does the spin cycle though, the new motor doesn't do that.

It was just what I had on hand, you can get something similar at Radio Shack though or if you can't find one I can send you one as I have a whole tube of them I bought on Ebay for other projects. You have to transpose two of the pins to make it fit where the old part was but that isn't hard to do and it works well.

Oops, that must have been late 2002, I remember him explaining the whole ordeal with the warranty service and I remember what we were doing in work at the time but for some reason things get a bit blurry when it comes to remembering what year it was. Maybe I'm getting old...

I just had a problem with my motor control board. I need to replace the fuse and a small capacitor.

I can not get the fuse out of the holder. Does it have to be desodered from the board?

Also, the capacitor is labeled D473K R97. I can't find the exact replacement anywhere. Do you know if a green cap 473K available from Radio Shack will work?

Thanks

In data Sat, 17 Jun 2006 08:20:54 +0200, Epriego ha scritto:

?? Fuse burned into holder? Desolder and replace holder and fuse

Yes.

The fuse is soldered in place, if it's blown then you almost certainly have several shorted power MOSFETs, and given the way the board is designed it probably blew up the main controller IC too.

I also have a Maytag Neptune Washer; model MAH4000AWW. Resistor R11 is burnt out . IF anyone can give me the value or color of it, I'd really appreciate it. TIA.