LED lamp help needed

Is the lamp one of these? The numbers are similar, but there are additional suffix letters that you did not provide:

Only $2,200 each:

I don't see six LED modules, although with 12 LED's, I can how 6 modules might work and fit: No disassembly photos. Bummer.

Could you double check the model number?

If you only have one out of 6 modules currently functional, my guess(tm) is that you're doing something wrong in the operation of the light. It might be getting too hot, insufficient ventilation, or too much applied AC voltage. Difficult to tell from here. If you repair one or more modules by replacing blown parts with identical parts, I would give it 5 chances out of 6 of blowing up again.

What I do in situations like this is first make a schematic. Identify as many parts as possible. For parts obscured with epoxy, use some type of epoxy softener to ID the part: With the one remaining working module, use an oscilloscope to measure waveforms and voltages. Be sure to isolate the light with an AC line isolation transformer to prevent the oscilloscope case from being at AC line potential. Or, use a dual trace scope in differential input mode. After you repair a module, compare voltages and waveforms.

Thanks for the reply Jeff. I forwarded your message a few minutes ago to me son and I'll let you know what success or lack of same he has. I'm gonna get some epoxy softener. I didn't even know the stuff was made. I should have too because I use epoxy for lots of fixes. Eric

Have you been able to separate in the driver modules from the LED array? The picture shows what looks like 12 "bulbs". Are each of these single lar ge die LEDs or are they made up of many small LED dies in an array?

If you can swap the electronics from the working module to one of the misbe having LEDs, you can see if it's an LED problem or driver board. From what I've seen over the years, it's more likely the LEDs are crapping out than the driver boards unless the boards are particularly poorly made or designe d.

I don't have a lot of faith in high wattage LEDs. Have you contacted the m anufacturer?

You can also soften some epoxy mixes using acetone and heat or freezing with cooling spray: See the list of references at the bottom of the page.

The paint section of a hardware store will have some kind of paint stripper that will also work with epoxy. The main active ingredient is methylene chloride. For example:

Depending where you live ... methylene chloride strippers are banned here apart from for professional use, as a result you might as well use porridge for paint stripper now.

Thanks. I forgot to mumble something about the VOC ban. Here's a list for various states:

In California: There seems to be a proposed law banning methylene chloride, but it seem to have NOT been enacted quite yet. I seem to recall that I can still buy the stuff at the local hardware store. I'll check tomorrow.

The EPA and the Trump administration seem to favor not banning it:

EU wide ban for household use of DCM

I've never tried to obtain the real stuff in the UK since the ban, but it seems to exist on ebay/amazon so presumably some suppliers are less strict than others about who qualifies as "professional"

I went to the local hardware store and methylene chloride furniture stripper is still available: Just about everything from the center of the photo to the right would disappears if the methylene chloride was banned. I bought some of the Jasco epoxy stripper and plan to check if it will soften epoxy glue.

Wow Eric, if those things are ~$1k+ each I would contact Larson and talk to some tech guy there. Often when something blows it will take out several parts... you probably know that.

George H.

Jeff Liebermann wrote on 8/2/2017 11:51 PM:

Methylene Chloride was used to glue plexiglass together. You place the parts in position and use a capillary tube to administer enough to wet the joint. Since the plexiglass is clear you can see it wet the joint. It dissolves the plastic and when it evaporates you have a welded joint.

Yep, that works as long as it's the clear liquid form of methylene chloride and not the gelled furniture stripper I usually find at the hardware store.

For plexiglass, also known as PMMA, poly methyl methacrylate, acrylite, lucite, and perspex, I prefer to use acetone instead: Various other banned chlorinated hydrocarbon VOC solvents will also work. My favorite mistake is getting some acetone into the pores on my fingers, and dissolving my fingerprint into the plexiglass.

This video is very similar to your method: Notice the use of a syringe to apply the solvent. Try to find a syringe where the plastic and rubber parts will not be attacked by the acetone. I use an all glass syringe with no plastic or rubber parts.

It isn't, it's just not allowed to be marketed as paint stripper.

NT

That's why I didn't say "methylene chloride is banned here", see above for what I did actually say, and whether you disagree with that.

This is my son's lamp and he has been busy getting his girlfriend's mothers's house ready to sell. He finally finished on Saturday last and can now look again at the lamp. He did contact the maker and they will only sell him new LED drivers. No advice on troubleshooting the existing drivers. Maybe this is because they have updated the drivers. So my son can buy the new style but will try first to fix what he has. Eric