Laptop motherboard fixes with pressure

May 26, 2005 28 Replies

On Mon, 30 May 2005 20:21:42 -0700, Jim Adney wrote (in article ):

What about plastics? There are several sockets (for RAM SODIMMs) and headers (for connector cables from HD and keyboard, etc.). Also some plastic film that wraps around the edge of the PCB where it mounts to the back of the laptop's case, presumably to insulate the edges of traces from shorting to the case.

Will these sustain such high (350F +) temps? Are these hi-temp materials? Or were the plastics surrounding the connector pins (for example) added after soldering when the PCB was manufactured?

I've got all the tools, now. Just want to know everything about the procedure before jumping in...

Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Thanks,

Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't ask a question here if I hadn't done that already. DaveC me@privacy.net This is an invalid return address Please reply in the news group

On Mon, 30 May 2005 20:28:22 -0700, Asimov wrote (in article ):

No, I'm not attacking the motherboard by carving off ICs or such.

I look at this way: it's like trying all the home remedies before submitting myself to surgery by a surgeon. Nothing to lose, right?

Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't ask a question here if I hadn't done that already. DaveC me@privacy.net This is an invalid return address Please reply in the news group

failure

it

Might be helpful to poke around on the board with a sharper tool, like a philips screwdriver with electrical tape on the end to insulate it. Then you may be able to localize down to a more specific component.

On Tue, 31 May 2005 23:27:03 -0700, James Sweet wrote (in article ):

Yeah, it would be helpful. But each troubleshooting attempt requires pressing on a specific spot (a particular IC, for example), then pressing the power button, and waiting... to see if the boot process succeeds. (The boot "gong" always works; the trick is to wait 10 seconds at least to see if the HD will start the loading of the OS.) Then powering off the board and starting again.

It takes a long time. Not like just blindly poking around until "Eureka!". (I wish!)

Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't ask a question here if I hadn't done that already. DaveC me@privacy.net This is an invalid return address Please reply in the news group

But they ususally do this before the plastic parts are attached.

Try it at home and you may find slag where you once had DIMM sockets.

-- David

On Wed, 1 Jun 2005 15:11:49 -0700, David C. wrote (in article ):

Do you know this for a fact? The SODIMM sockets are surface-mount solder tabs just like all the other components. They look like they are soldered right along with all the other components...

Maybe. Maybe not. The board's toast, anyway. Nothing to lose.

Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't ask a question here if I hadn't done that already. DaveC me@privacy.net This is an invalid return address Please reply in the news group

tabs

YMMV, just be very careful not to go too high or too long with the temperature.

You'll have to be careful of the plastics. They will soften and may be ruined. The ones I've dealt with must have been added after soldering.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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The localized pressure idea is a good one, but I'd stick with a totally nonconductive tool. There are many possibilities: popsicle stick, Bic pen turned around, plastic knitting needle, plastic tuner alignment tool, etc....

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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