I am pretty good but my washing machine just completely dead

My washing machine makes no noise or anything. I tested these things. I checked the power cord with load to where it end in the timer area. I checked to see if the faucets are on. It is a machine that will fill even if the lid is open. I open the back and the wiring looked clean and fine. I tried all water levels and temp settings. I tried all three of the washes available on the timer knob. I tried the timer in all various cycles. I manually filled the machine with normal water levels. I checked the intake screens of both hot and cold. Any ideas that I might not know or able to come up with?

Reply to
NN
Loading thread data ...

Did you plug it in and/or check the outlet for power? Regards Lee

Reply to
Lee

Check the lid interlock switch. Check for a thermal overload switch on the motor.

Reply to
Homer J Simpson

I did check the cord on the same outlet with a equivalent load. The lid interlock switch is in front of me now. But how does it work? It has four connectors named , neut, line, moter, machine. I would hook up a meter to neut and line and how do I test the two other connectors and what do I look for when the switch is in lid closed position.

Reply to
NN

I like to add I did a search before asking for help: This is the steps for a washer that is completely dead. Check that the washer is plugged in securely Check the circuit breaker or fuse box Test the outlet for current Check that the water supply valves are turned on Inspect the filter screens Test for overheating Test the water level switch Test the timer control Test the lid switch Test the water inlet valve Inspect the water pump Test the centrifugal switch Test the motor

I skipped overheating because it makes no sense with a dead machine. There is no way to test the timer at home.

Reply to
NN

Odd, but neut will connect to moter or machine and line will connect to the other of the pair.

Reply to
Homer J Simpson

Hi!

Actually, it could. Most larger electric motors have an integral protection device of some type. Some are one-shot thermal cutouts that, when blown, must be replaced. Others are circuit breaker type devices...some of which are "self resetting" given time to cool, and others that must be reset manually by pushing a button.

A problem that trips one of these devices can also damage or destroy it. I don't think they're terribly high quality, as I've seen thermal cutouts that didn't go until something started to smell hot or was damaged by getting too hot. More often than not, I've also seen the circuit breakers or fuses in a home react before the device's onboard breaker interrupted current flow. The main idea behind these may simply be fire prevention...

If it is an analog timer, there might be. Disconnect the washing machine

**completely** from electrical power. Put your meter leads across the plug ends and turn to a resistance measurement scale. Turn the machine on and off a few times. Rotate the timer with the machine "on". If the needle changes, the timer may be OK.

The most common failure that I've seen is that of the lid switch. But on a machine that will fill with the lid open, that should still happen.

William

Reply to
William R. Walsh

Is there a wiring diagram inside the machine or on the back?

Reply to
Homer J Simpson

I understand the overheating issue ( although the machine died from a cold start immediately after I started it ). All machines have some type of termal switch for fire protection.

Now for the lid switch, I can hook up a low volt battery to neut and line and use a 12 light for testing. where do I put the 2 wires for the light and look for ? Or how do I bypass it for now?

Reply to
NN

Update, I found the thermal switch (one time use) build into the lid switch. That,s it but one must now wonder why did it burn out.

Reply to
NN

Ok, nothing really burn out but a piece of plastic made in the shape of hour glass (cheap fuse) held another contact together for the whole machine in the same case as the lid switch. I guess if things get hot from the nearby lid switch, the plastic melts and the whole machine goes off. Talk about as cheap as it gets. I am happy to say it working again.

By the way, the neutral connector is a dead end in the switch. I like the heat sensors from old copying machines which are a resettable breaker. You covered all that stuff though. This lid switch house also the heat plastic fuse. One less part, The machine is 8 years old and very simple or sparse inside. It look like a beltless system.

Reply to
NN

Belts cost money.

Reply to
Homer J Simpson

How about a brand and model number? Is there a schematic tucked inside the panel?

Reply to
James Sweet

It is a maytag bought new in 1998, no schematics or model number but here is what the invoice reads.

1(or L)AT9356AAE serial # 23089114UD TAY(or x)

But I got it running again.

Reply to
NN

no schematic either, usually it is there with a first owner.

Reply to
NN

ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.