How to shrink heat shrink tubing?

I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

Thanks in advance,

Geoff.

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Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel gsm@mendelson.com  N3OWJ/4X1GM
New word I coined 12/13/09, "Sub-Wikipedia" adj, describing knowledge or
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Geoffrey S. Mendelson
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There are custom tools for this - but tend to be expensive due to the limited production. I use a dual heat paint stripper that came with a variety of nozzles and shields. Check out the sheds in your area.

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    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
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Dave Plowman (News)

over

situation.

Wikipedia.

Wrap the tip of (old) soldering iron with some plumber's PTFE tape and then apply the iron directly to the tubing or use a replacment tip , so adapted.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
N_Cook

We use Weller's #6966C, which is a small, lightweight gun that comes with an assortment of heat focusing attachments. There are many, many heat guns available in a huge array of styles and sizes, check your solder and tools supplier's catalog.

Reply to
Smitty Two

hair dryer.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

snipped-for-privacy@cable.mendelson.com...

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AND RUN ...UP WIND !!!!!!

DuPont studies show that the Teflon offgases toxic particulates at

446=B0F. At 680=B0F Teflon pans release at least six toxic gases, including two carcinogens, two global pollutants, and MFA, a chemical lethal to humans at low doses

erse.4mg.com/index.htm- Hide quoted text -

Reply to
Graham

With practice a Bic lighter does the job on small wire. Anything bigger like the end of a cable holding lots of wires say about 3/4 in you need a heat gun .

Reply to
Meat Plow

Hot air gun with an assortment of tips and adapters. If you need to protect other components, just block the air flow with some aluminum foil.

However, one stupid problem. I bought two ACE Hardware hot air guns:

which work well enough. However, the power cord is VERY stiff. The gun is quite light and the spring tension of the cord frequently causes the gun to move when placed on the table. As the tip remains hot for quite some time, having it move by itself around the table can do some serious damage. I've ruined the plastic on several devices before I was forced to build a holder (tin can screwed to a wood board). Normally, I would normally suggest finding a hot air gun that has a reasonably flexible power cord, but that seems to be difficult. I've looked at various equivalent hot air guns and all seem to have VERY stiff power cords.

High end heat guns, such as:

don't have this problem, and add much better temperature control, but cost much more than I want to spend (about $150).

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Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
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Jeff Liebermann

Isn't there a burning bush in your vicinity?

The problem is that fairly high temperatures are needed, well above what a lighter or hair dryer put out. Lighters, in particular, will burn the tubing before shrinking it.

One workable solution is to use a hair dryer, and block the inlets with a sock. This causes the outlet temperature to rise to the "shrinking" point. There's a catch, though... The hair dryer will "overheat" (natch -- that's the idea) and shut off. If the dryer doesn't have a resettable fuse, you won't be able to use the dryer again.

A few years ago I bought an inexpensive heat gun, which worked well. A bit of scrounging might turn one up.

Reply to
William Sommerwerck

If you need more heat than what a blow dryer will do, the HS is defective.

Reply to
AZ Nomad

Yes, but it keeps yelling "Behold the Metatron, Behold the Metatron" and won't help. :-)

Yes, that's what I found out. Especially if you get too close. Although I used to have a steady hand, that was a long time ago. It wiggles occasionaly, and when it does, the flame burns the plastic. :-(

I've never seen one here. Almost all of the construction is stone or concrete and that kind of paint does not work well on it.

Geoff.

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Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel gsm@mendelson.com  N3OWJ/4X1GM
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Geoffrey S. Mendelson

I've had pretty good luck with butane lighters that are turned way down (a mere flicker of a blue flame) *IF* they're used on fairly small shrink tubing. Just keep the hot spot moving and pay attention to what the tube is doing. Works great with 1/16" shrink tube for single pins but I do imagine it could be a disaster with large diameters.

--
Rich Webb     Norfolk, VA
Reply to
Rich Webb

Just as a point of reference, this tool appears to be about perfect for you:

eBay 300417780799

STEINEL (230 volts) HL1810S HOT AIR/HEAT GUN

--Winston

Reply to
Winston

Whatever way you heat it, use teflon shrinck tubing. You cant increase its blackness, and it shrinks to 1/3rd dia. And does not melt/burn until over 450 degree Celcius.

Reply to
Sjouke Burry

That`s the one I use, no complaints. It was nowhere near that price tho!

Ron(UK)

Reply to
Ron

While I was working at TRW, we had one of our technicians end up in the emergency room from sitting over a cable that he was using a thermal stripper on.

"Will he be ok?" "Only time will tell." "Is there anything you can do for him?" "Just keep an eye on him."

Of course, I think they should be selling Teflon lined blunts in the liquor stores.

Jeff

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Reply to
Jeffrey D Angus

If you're referring to 2-wire AC power cords for double-insulated applications, you might want to look around for cooking appliance cords with a very rubbery covering.

These are a specific type of heat resistant cord, intended for moderate current (not light duty) heat generating appliances like roasters, waffle irons and similar units. These cords wouldn't get stiff even if placed in a freezer.. like real rubber, not plastic.

I'm regularly annoyed by various types of signal connecting cords that are so stiff they keep their original bends even after use. I keep finding USB and video or low voltage cords that are a nuisance to use because they're extremely rigid, more like poly air hose than a low voltage cord.

-- Cheers, WB .............

Reply to
Wild_Bill

I use a Bosch 1500W paint stripper gun on low for the last 30 years or so :)

Nameplate rating says low is 320'C at 240l/m. It can be a little too hot if one brings the heatshrink too close.

I've not had much luck with a flame, tends to scorch the heatshrink.

Grant.

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Reply to
Grant

The rubber (RHW or RHH) cords seem to work best. Unfortunately, most cheap plastic cords have an intergrated strain relief molded into the plastic, making replacement with a different type of cord rather tedious.

Good idea. I have a roll of 3 conductor 14AWG RHW for replacing power tool cords and extension cords. I never thought of using it for kitchen appliances.

Ummm... why would I put something electrical in the freezer? Never mind, I don't want to know.

Yep. Same problem. There's a customer perception that a thicker cord somehow signifies a high power or high current device. It's common for laser printers and copiers to arrive with huge diameter cords, that are mostly plastic, not copper. Compared to the common power cord of half the diameter, the wire guages inside are identical. Of course, the added plastic makes them rigid, inflexible, difficult to manage, and impossible to coil.

With video and USB, the problem is not the plastic but the shielding. There's no easy way to provide superior shielding and still have a flexible cord. Braid is more flexible than foil, but foil has better coverage. The exception is non-wicking braid, where the plastic jacket is molded into the braid, which can be used to hammer nails.

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Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
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Jeff Liebermann

350C for most PTFE formulations. 450C will set paper on fire. The shrink ratio varies from 2:1 to 4:1.

The stuff gave me problems until I finally read the instructions. There are different types, that require different temperatures, cool down periods, and handling:

See the various "how to shrink" sections at the bottom.

However, the results are worth the effort. The PTFE tubing is far more flexible after shrinking. With a 4:1 shrink diameter ratio, I have few fit problems. However, I found that it becomes brittle when overheated or cooled to quickly. Going too slowly is also a potential fire hazard when working with flammable cables.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
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Jeff Liebermann

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