How do I find a power adapter spec for an old Hyundai laptop?

Google: Hyundai laptop power supply

Hyundai did dabble in more expensive units in 2018. The power supply on this, is pretty impressive.

This generation seems to have started in 2023 or so.

The new Celerons all work at 12V @ 2A.

If the battery pack is removable, see if the battery pack has a part number, then Google the battery pack part number, and see which model(s) of laptop it supports. That could narrow the number of potential models for you.

Paul

Looking for a power adapter(external to device) or battery(internal or externally installed on device)?

You've a few answers - one referencing a power supply, the other referencing a battery pack. => Which one are you looking to find ???

MSinfo32 should give the manufacturer and model number.

... But the machine cannot run, until the OP obtains a power source for it. That's why we cannot do any Captain Obvious procedures in this case. dmidecode is one source of information, even when the machine has no OS in it (and you are using a LiveCD instead). But you need power, for any easy-to-do electronic procedures.

CPUZ has a DMI section in the text report save-able in the last tab. The file is huge. This is just a tiny (edited) section of the file. dmidecode may have originally been written at Intel, but I'm not sure about that.

DMI

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

SMBIOS Version 2.8

DMI BIOS vendor American Megatrends International LLC.

DMI System Information manufacturer Micro-Star International Co. Ltd. product MS-7C56

DMI Baseboard vendor Micro-Star International Co. Ltd. model MPG B550 GAMING PLUS (MS-7C56)

DMI System Enclosure manufacturer Micro-Star International Co. Ltd. chassis type Desktop

Most machines would have a plate on them somewhere, with some details about the equipment. My Acer has a plate on the top surface, which is a very useful place to put it. It allows the laptop to sit on the computer table at my computer store, and customers can see immediately what the model number is, write it down, and go home and look up the particulars for it.

But some manufacturers are like PC-Chips, and they strip all identifiers off the equipment. That's why, worst case, and only with some luck, you might find a part number on the battery pack, which can be correlated with the dimensions of the thing to establish a model without using electronic identification.

You can always unsolder the BIOS chip and dump the DMI section manually. It's just text after all, so a PROM programmer would make it accessible to you. (There are portable devices for SPI chips, which is another way to do it. They have a clip that fits onto the chip.)

On a laptop, the DMI strings would be slightly different in nature, and be more likely to have a model number for the laptop.

At my computer store, if the tech builds a desktop for you, one of his build steps, is to reach into the DMI, and record the store name and particulars in the DMI. If you look in the DMI of my first PC computer, you will find the name of the (now bankrupt) computer store that did the build. They do the DMI, around the same time they glue that tiny square computer store logo, to the computer case.

Paul

Not only look at the battery pack, but also look in the compartment which holds the battery. Very likely, there are some (model/product number) markings *in* that compartment.

That will only work if the company makes only one laptop power supply. Does it?

IDK. However, if you search the internet, including the Hyundai website, you will only find the 12V, 2A or 3A models.

Isn't 12 volts far too low for any modern laptop power supply? Aren't they usually around 20 volts?

They have to be high enough to charge the battery pack cheaply. Like, with a buck converter.

A battery pack running between 14.4V and 16.8V, could likely be charged from a 19V source. That might work.

A battery pack operating at 7.2V to 8.4V could be operated from a 12V source. You would just put more chains in parallel (like a 2S3P or a 2S4P pack) to get more watt-hours to compensate for the lower voltage. Equalizing the charge might be more of a problem.

A disadvantage of doing this, is the SMPS for VCore is likely less efficient. A higher voltage would work a bit better.

I would guess the engineer looked at the BOM cost, and made that the number one priority. The 12V 2A adapter is a common item for external 3.5" HDD enclosures. They have a spec like that, with an unstated spec of allowing a bit more current for a few seconds, without the current limiter cutting out. The HDD adapters aren't exactly 12V @ 2A, cutting out at 2.000 A. They should be able to deliver a bit more current, on demand. This adapter won't have an opportunity to demonstrate that, but the design may just be a HDD wall adapter with a slightly different skin.

Paul

Internet search:

HYUNDAI BATTERY 7.4V 5000MAH 37WH E466113 HYBOOK HT14CCIC44EGP.

Specifications for HYUNDAI Thinnote-A 14.1" Laptop Celeron N3350 | 4GB |

Makes me wonder how long the laptop will run on battery. Most of the internal stuff will use from 1v to approx 5v. Note the WH on the first battery = 37 WH. WH = IxE. Boost the E to 20V and it makes 100 WH. Since most of the stuff runs at 1v to 5v, a 20v battery would give more WH reserves... and make the LT heavier and bigger.

The only recent laptop I've had that used 12V was the Asus netbook.

You can do VCore power conversion, off the +5V rail.

I have an AthlonXP board (A7N8X), where there was no ATX12V connector, and the current came in through the ATX 20 pin main connector. Cylindrical input inductor and three caps on the 5V side. Two iron core toriods on the output side and five electrolytics. Four MOSFETs, a pair per phase, knuckle draggers with high gate capacitance. You don't run these on modern power supplies, you go to the junk room and find one with a "strong" 5V output. While gaming, the +5V consumption was high enough, it would cause most modern PSU to shut off :-)

The board designs switched to ATX12V right after that, and suddenly RichTek wasn't the only game in town.

Most power converters (SMPS) have run at higher frequencies than 50KHz. The record holder, is the Haswell FIVR inside the CPU package, running its power converter at 200MHz. Nobody else has some close to being that bold, since.

The designs today, are rather cheesy. There are some "favored" MOSFETs for PC design. You use a shitload of those, for no particular reason. Some of the designs run hot. On the Asus side, they did a multi-phase design, where they had *three* banks in parallel. That's three phases with exactly the same timing and firing point, and the currents from them add. That wouldn't be necessary, if you spent a buck or two more on a better MOSFET. But I have to admit, I'm impressed with the temperature rise that gives. Lukewarm when flat out at 200 Watts. There is as much heat coming from resistive loss in the PCB, as in the MOSFETs! There is likely more VCore ripple on those boards, but there is no sign of instability that I can see.

For that board, an electrical type set up a go-fund-me, to buy a small multi-channel scope, so he could take pictures of the phase firing order, and prove what they were doing :-) Which is also a cool aspect of our current time. Donation-ware reverse engineering.

Paul

I am sorry for not responding sooner but I had to help someone who was sick. Here are front and back pictures of the laptop in question.

Notice that the right edge of the trackpad lines up almost exactly between the "Alt" and "Control" key (actually it hits the edge of the "Alt" key).

I just saw the recommendation to remove the case to read the battery. I will do that next.

Thanks for your help in identifying what the charger is for this laptop.

could you rig up a battery charger that sense the battery voltage, and provides that voltage. It would take the rigging up of they proper plug size for the computer.

The idea is to give the battery enough charge that you could get into the computer, and find some specifications.

Alternately google search the the location of the identification plate for a Hyundai laptop. You may have to take the back cover off to find some identification markings.

My guess, is this is an ODM laptop, devoid of most markings. With ODM, each model can be ordered from a different company. The circuit board in one of the HyBooks is made by "Eii". I don't think "renowned" is quite the name I would use. The word "obscure" comes to mind. They also likely don't do their own fabrication, so the PCB manufacturing plant is unknown. This might be a "design house", and in the Chinese system, there is plenty of matrix manufacturing capability.

"Established in 2013, Eii Technology is a renowned ODM (Original Design Manufacturer) company located in the vibrant hub of Shenzhen's Qianhai bay. Our primary focus is on the production and marketing of consumer electronics, encompassing notebook PCs, All-in-One (AIO) computers, and tablet PCs. Our dedicated team of 120 professionals operates from our Shenzhen headquarters, with 40% of them boasting over a decade of R&D experience.

The pouch pack inside the laptop, is similarly untraceable.

It is not made by Hyundai and does not have a Hyundai part number.

This product is, unfortunately, a PCChips-like product. And really hard to identify.

Now, one of the Hybook, has white lettering on the bottom of the laptop. The lettering is in the center and up near the hinge end of the bottom of the unit. But because the letters are only silk screened on, if the laptop sits on the users lap, it's easy to wear the lettering off. And that may have been the only laptop identifier, is some white text on the bottom.

The circuit board has a date on it, this one is the year 2020 for example. But to gain access to it, requires removal of the heat spreader plate. And that means fitting it and putting the thermal paste back later.

Sorry, Paul

Thanks for looking at it where you noticed there's NOTHING by way of description other than the one brand name on the outside top cover.

I made a small mistake in the links to the pictures which I fixed below.

Thanks for all the advice.

For best results, I would rip it apart using all of the proper techniques.

The battery is, if memory serves, 8.4V or two cells in series. The 8.4V is the fully charged voltage, and 7.4V is closer to the "nominal" voltage after it settles. Charging it from 12V makes sense. If a 19V adapter was used, that would be wasteful, with some amount of heat generated.

Lithium cells have to be charged with a "precision" charger. The cells have high energy density (which is why we use them), but they are also fairly unstable and must be treated with respect. That's why there are videos of laptop fires.

You could use any external voltage you wanted, if there was a buck converter inside, but I don't think they do the design that way. Someone in a USENET group, used a "generic" adapter which had a slightly higher voltage than was required, and about a month later he wrote back to report the laptop no longer charged the battery and something had broken. I take this as a sign that the machines are not tolerant of using the wrong voltage.

Paul