How do I find a power adapter spec for an old Hyundai laptop?

May 01, 2025 Last reply: 1 year ago 32 Replies

You posted in the W10 NG. If this comp runs W10 then is it fairly new and not made in 1992. If that is the case then just get one of the cheap 12v PS's from Amazon.

Does Hy un Dri make a modern laptop?

Look at the ratio of screen height to width. So now I repeat my question: Does Hy un Dri make a modern laptop?

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Not an identical match (the logo is not centred on that one) but pretty close.

Which leads me to:

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(something odd about the pictures there - it appears to have two microSD slots. I wonder if they've been letting AI near the pictures...)

7.4V battery according to the specs.

I managed to find 3 power adapters on ebay and Amazon for it, however: One just says Output: 20W Max Another looks like AI has mangled the text

This one has the output specs blanked out:

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the description says 12V.

So I suppose 12V 2A would do it. That sounds right for a 7.4V two-cell battery and a buck converter to charge it.

It's a $150 laptop that everyone says is awful, so I wouldn't spend too much on it :-) But you probably have a 12V adapter lying around anyway.

Theo

Then there's also the problem of which size DC connector it uses. 2.5mm x 0.7mm 3.5mm x 1.35mm 3.5mm x 1.1mm 4.0mm x 1.7mm 4.8mm x 1.7mm 5.5mm x 1.7mm 5.5mm x 2.1mm 5.5mm x 2.5mm 6.3mm x 3.0mm 6.0mm x 4.4mm 6.3mm x 4.4mm

Why is a step down DC to lower DC converter called a buck converter? Shouldn't it be called a variable duty cycle converter instead? I s'pose the name contrasts better with that of a boost converter.

The op will need a spudger kit and maybe those pentacostal screwdrivers.

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The video also has a discussion about the '20W' PSU and 'what's 12 times 2 it's not 20', which suggests it's marked 12V 2A.

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12V 2A)

has a picture and it's a slim jack so I suspect the outer is less than 5.5. It's worth having a set of adapters for all the different tips so you can try them all. eg

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recommending this particular listing)

Theo

First of all, for reference, this is a "real" Hyundai laptop. This isn't 16:9, this is 1:1 the way a South Korean likes it :-) They could sell this in their domestic market. What this is missing is the "pencil tray" which is supposed to be near the bottom of the monitor panel area.

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and that gives us this. The real (korean) company, before they sold the name. The domain seems to have been squatted *twice* since this time :-) Amazing.

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It's a wonder they could sell the trade name seventeen years later and make money off it.

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You get the aspect ratio from the pictures.

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# 13.75 wide chassis
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# 13.8 diagonal on screen
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# 802.11N Wifi dongle on side of unit
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# 8.8 tall chassis, Two seven-slot vents on bottom
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# Shows ports

16:9 would be 1.78, unit is 1.56 or 16:10 roughly. The monitor I'm typing on is 16:10 and 1440x900. My newest monitor is 1920x1080 and 16:9 .

That's "indeterminate" as far as aging.

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Ports are

DC barrel USB2 (fork symbol) <=== It turns out Hyundai does not use "SS" for USB3. They use black tab USB2, blue tab USB3 HDMI output

USB2 (fork symbol) 802.11N plugged in Headphone jack 3.5mm SD slot of some sort ?

Which means the poor thing had zero networking ? Not likely. The Hybook in the Youtube video, had one Wifi cable shown coming from the CPU area. I would think the thing would have Wifi, if they choose to not put an Ethernet port on it!

That makes the unit about twelve years old, as a rough guess. The date on the internal battery brick should be a very good indicator of age. A person is unlikely to be screwing around with battery brick replacements on a unit like this, even though this one is dead-easy to do.

The units shown on the Hyundai website today, are older units (designs not spun this year), so they are presumably trying to clear out stock.

My desktop of that vintage, has USB3, but it has that because it has add-on Asmedia chips to make it possible. The Southbridge only had USB2 ports on it (a bit backward). This unit is unlikely to be collecting outboard chips for additional functions. If the unit was newer, a full raft of USB3 would be part of the Southbridge/PCH or could even come from the SOC part of the CPU. Some CPUs now, have two SATA ports on them.

If Hyundai made older stuff, they may have changed the web site domain name. That will make it harder to trace.

As the OP noted, the alignment of the trackpad, to the row of keys next to it, is not like the units currently on the Hyundai site.

Tracking down seventeen years worth of missing web sites, is still a challenge. Can you get drivers for these things ? Maybe I should concentrate on "Hyundai laptop driver" in Google, to sniff out some more domains.

OMG. The twits! Notice they are using a non-standard port number for a web site. Classic high school goodness. (Not on archive.org either)

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I love the "smell of happy customers" burning in the morning air...

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Summary: Just plug in a 12V adapter with the correct polarity and move on. The battery pack is likely to be 8.4V (two lithium cobalt cells at top charge voltage), and 12V input will get the job done. If the machine catches fire, well, that's about all it is worth if the white lettering is missing from the bottom of the chassis. You can't even track down drivers for these stupid things.

The Hyundai "gaming laptop" was different, more of a 19V design with a more common kind of battery pack.

For safety, take the bottom off, read the battery pack voltage, use the 12V adapter idea if the pack reads 8.4V/7.4V (charging/nominal).

If the unit had an eject-able battery pack, then that would definitely be a different voltage.

Paul

There are three types, buck, boost, and buck-boost :-)

The buck-boost is the most complicated.

If you have a five volt input device, and the output is variable and knob adjustable, then to make six volts on output it runs in boost mode, and to make four volts it runs in buck mode.

Someone at work commissioned someone outside the company to build us a buck-boost on a PCB and the circuit was huge in terms of component count.

In principle, you could do a boost first, followed by a buck, and get a dial-adjustable voltage. But that's two conversions, and the boost might only be 80% efficient, and the circuit is going to get warm if you do it that way. A fully integrated buck-boost changes modes, so there is only ever one conversion going on at a time.

Buck is pretty efficient, or at least, it's easier to optimize.

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And thank goodness, there's a Wiki for this. As a bonus, it even covers some of the methods used in LED lighting (SEPIC and CUK, at least according to one article).

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Paul

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5.50 2.10 M

5.50 2.50 N

The letters are the Adapt-A-Plug designation. M and N are pretty common for low-current electronics.

But some laptops have used relatively large and ugly barrels, for no good reason. Maybe that's part of preventing other adapters from being used.

Paul

In the same way that Duracell makes USB sticks :-)

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Paul

Over here Hyundai makes power tools, which bear a striking similarity to Chinese no-brand tools...

I think it's a different part of the chaebol to Hyundai cars etc, just like you can buy a Samsung phone and a Samsung ship, but they only have tenuous corporate connections.

(Duracell are different - they license the brand to slap on random stuff. It's often an OEM doing the slapping)

Theo

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