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Can I sub a wire wound resistor for a cement?

I cannot get a 180 ohms,20 watt cement resistor locally so I have two questions:

1)Can I use a 25 watt (180 ohms) wire wound resistor in place of a 20 watt cement (180 ohms)? 2)Does anyone have other OEM part #'s for a 180 ohms,20 watt cement standup resitor?

To know why I need one you can read below:

We in the past several years have noticed alot of those cheap 25" Orion chassis tv's come into our repair shops with a domino effect of failed parts due to a high ESR C446=1 Uf,160v=horizontal driver transformer cap.The value of R506 and a part # seems to be a popular issue well the value is 180 ohm,20 watt cement and I finally found a part #:

Panasonic # ERF20ZJ181 Orion # R5W2CH181J

Or you can try using:

150 ohm,20w=Sony # 1-205-938-11

For more info on what I am talking about read below:

25" Durabrand stereo tv model:DBTV2500,chassis:M3I05,year:Oct 2000,UL:289X=Orion.Howard W.Sams # 4430.The customer turned it on one day and it shut off.Upon inspection I discovered the following to be defective:

C446=1 uf,160v=horizontal driver transformer cap=high ESR Q401=2SD2499=HOT transistor (shorted) R506=180 ohm,20 watt (open)= Orion # R5W2CH181J (cement)= 25W power wirewound resistor NTE # 25W118 =Panasonic # ERF20ZJ181 or you can try using a 150 ohm,20w Sony #

1-205-938-11 R515=1.5 ohm,3 watt (metal)=Orion # R3X28B1R5J NTE # 3W1D5 (feedback from pin 3=input & pin 4=output of IC501=STR30110) (open)=Orion # R3X28B1R5J (metal) IC501=STR30110=pins 3 (input) & pins 4 (output) are shorted

This tv uses the following parts:

FB401=Flyback # FCM-25C001 (Samsung) or 3225010 (Emerson) Yoke # 7M062505 RCA crt # 63AHC26X

This set is the same as a Memorex MT2251,so you can go to the Memorex site and download the Service Manual.This set is similar to Orion/Sansui TV2520 and TVM2515 and the service manuals can be download free at:

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search on Google using those models I discovered that some of the brands listed below also use that Orion chassis:

Orion Admiral Memorex Sansui Citizen

Sidney Dartmouth,Nova Scotia Canada

Reply to
sidneybek
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I'm guessing that what you're calling a "cement" resistor is what some people refer to as a "sandbox" resistor. It looks like a little cast hollow box into which someone dropped some kind of resistor and them cemented it in place with some sort of ceramic-like material.

If this is what you are trying to replace then you should know that most of these are just another form of wire wound resistor, and replacing it with a different form of wirewound should be fine as long as the wattage is as high or higher than the original.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Reply to
Jim Adney

sidneybek: With almost no exceptions.... high wattage "cement" resistors are wirewound.... sometimes they are called sand filled resistors with a visible sand filling and sometimes they are just cement or ceramic cases and/or also porcelain glaze covered resistance wire windings on a ceramic core. Lower wattage power resistors of a couple of watts or less can be what is called "flameproof" metal oxide resistors... good for some critical high frequency circuits because they do not display the inductance inherent in wirewound resistors. I would have not problem subbing different kinds of wirewound resistors for one another. The big considerations are wattage and ohm value which you seem to have covered by subbing a 25 watt for a 20 watt of the same 180 ohm value. electricitym

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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Reply to
electricitym

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