California salvage title - lessons learned fixing all the lights, electronics, and brakes

Dec 22, 2021 Last reply: 4 years ago 10 Replies

California salvage title - lessons learned (it took 3 tries to pass!)


  1. If your car is old (like mine) then it's easy to "total" it
  2. Their insurance company pay almost nothing for it (at over 300K miles)
  3. Their insurance will pay you even less than that to let you keep it
  4. Then their insurance will report it to the DMV as a "salvage" vehicle
  5. After that you can stay on your registration only until it expires
  6. When your registration expires, you can NOT ever renew it ever again
  7. You must get a _new_ title & plates from the DMV as a salvage vehicle

The requirements for a new title for a California vehicle apparently are: a. You must pass a specific STAR smog inspection for non-standard vehicles b. You must pass all brake requirements for new vehicles sold in California c. That means they will drive the vehicle to test the brakes (including ABS) d. And they remove all four wheels to check pad, shoe, rotor & drum specs e. They will check the calipers, boots & brake lines for evidence of wear f. You must pass all light requirements for new vehicles sold in California g. All exterior lights must work & all dash light indicators must also work h. That means even the blue highbeam indicator on the panel must be working i. And all turn signal lights must work and the emergency brake light too j. No light is allowed to be cracked, broken, crooked, or fogged in any way k. That means even the license plate lights must work (ask me how I know) l. Headlights do not need to be aimed properly but they must be adjustable m. All dash indicators for lights must be working properly such as signals



The smog check can be done at any STAR certified smog station but the brake and light checks can only be done by California certified independent shops.



When you finally get to the California DMV office A. They will physically check the VIN in about a dozen places on the vehicle B. They told me they're looking for stolen parts and stolen vehicles C. You will surrender to the DMV your old title (they give you a new one) D. You will surrender to the DMV your old plates (they give you new ones) E. You must give them the two certificates (one for brake & one for lights) F. They didn't ask me for the smog certificate (must be on file already) G. They need a claim number & price insurance paid (ask me how I know this) H. They didn't ask for proof of insurance (probably it too is on file) I. A few hundred dollars (California charges tax on all cars yearly)



If you miss any one of those (e.g., sheet metal screws in the side marker lights), they will not issue the salvage title & you can't register it.



The hardest part for me was my license plate light bulbs weren't working which turned out to be a need to solder & splice fatigued often bent wires.


The process in CT sounds even worse

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includes things like before and after photos of repairs, receipts for all part used, car has to be *towed* to and from the inspection site, etc etc

My 2008 Ford Fusion with *only* 43,000 miles was totaled re $5000 repair estimate. I could have done it myself for about $1500, all cosmetic, nothing mechanical,  right front end scrape.

I saw where ins. co sold it at auction for $1200 to a body shop/used car lot who will probably either repair and sell it, or use as a part out. Rest of car was showroom clean.

Do they not have a Classic Car licence for vehicles over X years? Or does that have too many restrictions?

John :-#)#

"We're from the government. We're here to help you."

Not.

""Retired" snipped-for-privacy@home.com wrote

That Connecticut process _does_ look even worse than California! But what does it mean when they said "salvages cannot be rebuilt".

In Connecticut you need before and after photos and descriptions of how th3e repairs were made and receipts and they can even inspect the undercoating by scraping it away for the DMV inspection process to be completed.

Also in Connecticut you apparently need the airbags inspected by licensed technicians.

I'm amazed they check the hood latches, the hinges, the bumpers and energy absorbers, even the height and length, the windshield and window tinting, the adhesives used, the visibility of the VIN from outside, the windows, and even the interior seats, seat position locks, seat back locks, seat belts, defroster, heater fan, trunk, and even trunk seals and underbody rust.

They check the alignment it says in the PDF (how can they do that at a DMV?)

Wow. Towing. Mandatory. With no wheels on the road.

Luckily for me I drove mine to the smog and brake and light inspection shops, and then to the DMV office but I've also been driving it for months where in Connecticut, based on your pdf, they "cancel" your registration the instant the DMV gets the notice from the insurance company so that would have made it illegal to drive on the public roads.

This has only about 250K miles but it's still going strong. The damage is cosmetic, but as you noted, almost anything will total a twenty-five year old vehicle even if the engine and drive train are still running strong.

One difference is California keeps the "salvage" title while Connecticut apparently changes the title from salvage to "rebuilt" if that matters.

I saw in the DMV a sign saying you need a special license just to dismantle your car or to sell the parts off your own car!

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There seem to be tons of rules for just taking a fender off and selling it as a used part.
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Maybe they only apply to dealers but the sign in the DMV said nobody can dismantle a car or sell the parts without a license.
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One hopes that this is not Jimmy Neutron's BMW that is under discussion....

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

In Virginia the Classic Car, Antique, or Farm licenses are not valid for regular street use. They are restricted for the purpose - you can use the Classic Car license plate to drive to the classic car show, not to the grocery store.

At least in theory. This is widely ignored in my neighborhood.

It means you can't get a salvage title on a car and then build a car from random parts and use the salvage title on it.

In general, getting a car totalled is not worth it for a car that is of low value. You get a couple hundred dollars from the insurance company, then you go through all sorts of craziness in order to get it back on the road.

That craziness exists to prevent people from getting hundreds of thousands in insurance on a Ferrari and then getting a salvage title and driving it around while paying minimal taxes on it.

It is assumed that unless you're going to be getting a lot of money from your insurance company that you'll just withdraw the claim. Which is what the original poster should have done.

--scott

In MD, "occasional personal use" is allowed. Plus, you can get special plates; i.e. amateur radio+historic. And AFAICT, the amateur radio plates then do not say historic on them.

In NC the amateur radio plates cost more , Last time I checked they cost between a regular plate and one of the plates with letters and numbers of your choice. There are other plates like clubs that also cost more than regular plates

Colorado last time I looked $65

KenW

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