APC UPS -- replace battery, or...?

I have an APC Back-UPS ES 750 to which I have plugged in my PVR (a not particularly high-powered computer, and with only one HD). It is not indicating that the battery is dead and needs replacing, but whenever the power goes off, even for just a second or two, the UPS indicates that it is overloaded (no indicator lights, and continuous sound).

Is it worth replacing the battery just in case, or is this thing ready for the recyclers?

Perce

Whether it's "worth it" or not would depend on how much you're willing to spend on the battery. Whether or not that will cure things, no way for me to say. The battery is the most likely thing to be failing, but without a whole lot more information than you're likely going to be able to give online, there's no way to be certain that's truly the problem.

If you can get your hands on a battery cheap, it's worth trying. If not...

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Those batteries have a ten-year life. If it is ten years or more old, and you need a UPS, just buy an APS replacement battery. They recycle the old one for you...

** It's just a regular SLA battery ( aka gell cell) - right ?

IME you are lucky to get more than 2 years out of one, specially when abused with massive, high current, short term discharges as here.

If not charged regularly, the things self destruct in about 1 to 2 years from NEW through internal corrosion.

As another poster has said, i'ts odds on the battery/s are stuffed.

.... Phil

Percival P. Cassidy prodded the keyboard with:

Use your car battery for a test !

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                      Baron.

I have several of these in various versions. The battery is a standard

12V, 9Ah battery. The latest 'real' APC battery is a Kung Long WP9- 125HR. I have also seen a CSB brand HR1234WF2.

Basically, it's a roughly 5.94x2.56x3.72 battery with .250 (1/4 inch) terminals. Be aware that Amazon or others may link some of those part numbers to other 'similar' batteries. Major names are CSB, PowerSonic.

Mouser Electronics has a genuine CSB for about $27.44.

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Yes, regular SLA battery. CSB branded on the end, with an APC label on the front.

As I stated in my original message, there is no indication that the battery needs replacing -- BUT now that I look at the thing closely, there is no sign of the "Replace Battery" indicator that, according to the user guide, is supposed to flash when the battery needs replacing: it simply does not exist. I don't remember when or where I bought this UPS; could it be a dumbed-down-for-sale-in-discount-stores variant -- but still with the same model number?

Perce

It works with a different (but not new) battery.

Perce

A UPS I bought had an energy saving feature that prevented it operating if the load was under a specified value.

The last battery problem I had involved a battery that seemed to be OK, but the UPS played dead.

All tests suggested the battery was good - but it was sluggish turning over a motorcycle starter.

High current will take a toll - but the batteries last longer if you have frequent outages.

If its only ever float charged; the distilled water eventually gasses away - the more concentrated H2SO4 left behind sulphates the plates.

NOT if your car has a 'brain'. Removing the battery will remove much of the 'learning' it does, wipe the radio code (do you remember where that is?), wipe out any sync, and, perhaps, wipe some of the operational updates (ther e are always some) that have been done on the car since it was first progra mmed at the factory.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com prodded the keyboard with:

He doesn't have to remove the battery, just use jumper leads to test the UPS.

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                      Baron.

Really?

We have established that the UPS is not working. What if the "not working" has nothing to do with the battery? Now you are connecting one system - defects unknown - to another system not (yet) defective, directly.

Smart move!

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

If cell internal resistance can be an issue, the resistance of jumper leads probably can be too.

It would have to be a pretty small car battery for a 750 VA UPS to do any harm to the car.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

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I am thinking more of some level of dead-short or similar.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Have you tried the power interrupt with a very light load, like a 4W night light? That might give you a clue whether the system will run with a new battery.

Use a voltmeter to measure the voltage on the UPS battery when unloaded. Turn on the system, do the power interruption and see what the battery voltage does. Try it with a very light load.

If you're paranoid, put a 20 amp fuse between the car battery and ups battery.

Another option is to hook a car headlight or some other heavy load directly to the UPS battery to see if it is good.

Been my experience that a new UPS on sale is about the same cost as a quality replacement battery for your old one.

I don't have anything mission critical. If my UPS runs the system for 10 seconds, it's done its job. Any power outage longer than that will likely be out for way longer than the run time of any battery system I'm willing to devote to the system.

I've seen some pretty clapped out batteries light a H4 headlamp bulb with no problem - its not a reliable test.

A UPS battery should turn over a typical motorcycle starter without any sign of being sluggish.

Some UPS units play dead if there's high internal cell resistance.

Another point many overlook - Ah capacity falls as current draw rises.

I usually slap on a used auto battery with cable extension to get a couple hours backup on my PC.