Questions about size of magnetic wire to use

You might easily build an alternator that size, but the means to drive it with wind power? I seriously doubt that a 12" wheel is going to catch enough wind. 700 watts is over one horsepower. Even a 1/3 hp fan is a pretty big deal, for the motor and size of the blades to use that much energy.

Ok here's a few induction motors 1 hp single phase - 42 pounds

1 hp single phase 32 pounds, 3/4 horse, 25 pounds, all about 9.9" X6.5"

The 600 watt wind power generator with the 6.5 foot blades and 14 AWG wire and two sets of real magnets is believable. 800 watts peak

Now if you're talking about the double rotor one with the 6.5 foot blades - I believe that can make some power. And its a far cry from the demonstrator you're talking about and still one sixth to one tenth of the size you'd need for 5 killowatts. And he's talking about serious wind to power it to that level.

I live on the coast and see winds of >30 mph maybe 20 days a year.

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why do you want to use thin wire?

you can use thin wire in a design that calls for thick wire by just bunching a number of thin wires together wan winding them in the place of the thick wire.

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Bye.
   Jasen
Reply to
Jasen Betts

AWG20 doesn't really feel thin to me ;) Less RPM, more turns, easier to work with. Cheaper per foot, etc.

Reply to
ewitte

Still not wind power ;) I'll spin it at 6000 RPM if thats what it takes but prefer 2500 or less. I guess its best to move up to 20 inch. I'll probably do 3 sets of 18 coils on a three 3-phase bridge rectifiers and possilby bump up to AWG18.

Eirc

Reply to
ewitte

Still less than ideal circumstances and I've pulled over 7w out of that

3.5" rotor. Highest I've seen is 11.4v @ .65amps :) Less than 1000 rpm still. That was delta configuration. Configured as star I saw about 15v at 0.3 amps.
Reply to
ewitte

By less than ideal I mean I've not found the hardware I'm looking for yet. What I'm spinning it with is held on by tape and it slips at higher RPM. Also I tried putting a small nail under each coil but it introduced a lot of drag. Maybe if it were a little further from the magnet.

Eric

Reply to
ewitte

cheaper per foot but you need more feet - really it depends how many volts you want. it seemed to me that you talked about putting windings in parallel

I think it's better to put the windings in series I wouldn't want to see 54amps in a 20 gague wire, I think even a 15A fuse wire is thicker than that.

if performance at low RPM is an issue go with 18 poles on the rotor (alternate N,S,N,S) and altenate your three phases round the stator

hook the windings of each phase in series and use a three phase bridge rectifier (or 6 diodes, or 1-1/2 regular AC bridge rectifiers)

Automotive altenators use a similar design for similar reasons.

Bye. Jasen

Reply to
Jasen Betts

I think you missed the point. There shouldn't be 54 amps going through the 20 guage wire. If I divided it in 6 sections for instance it would likely be 9amps, or 1amp if I had 54 3-phase bridge rectifiers. From the bridge rectifiers +/- I can use large cable.

Eric

Reply to
ewitte

Thanks to everyone that helped. I've been reading a little more on that site. I guess I mistakenly thought I'd need hundreds of turns per coil to get over 12v off of the thing. I'm looking at doing something similar to the dual 8" rotor design (with original 36 slot stator) now. With wind generated speeds he has gotten 815W (albeit 32mph) off that sucker and only used 20 turns of 14AWG wire. I might try the exact setup with 25 turns of 10AWG wire and a lot more powerful magnets. I've ordered an extra 6 magnets so I can do it (it needs 24).

Eric

Reply to
ewitte

In the early 60's i had the "pleasure" of tinkering with a working unit, They were actually from the 30's or 40's, i could tell from the tube types (even though is was a kid at the time, i also had transistors and early op-amps to play with at the same time)

Using steel wire for conductors is suboptimal and uncommon. I built some tesla coils myself along the way, had one good one, about 7-1/2 inch airspike and lit fluorescent tubes for about 20 feet. Estimated secondary voltage about 750 kV.

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JosephKK
Reply to
JosephKK

Whoa, 20 gauge not thin? I have worked with 500MCM all the way down to 46 gauge. Overall, 20 Ga is thin. Just the same, i still do not understand what you are trying to do. Are you building a generator, a motor or what?

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JosephKK
Reply to
JosephKK

So it seem we are talking about generators. rpm per se does not have to be an issue.

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JosephKK
Reply to
JosephKK

Jasen, how about you research induction generators for producing AC power.

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JosephKK
Reply to
JosephKK

= "in between"

I wound the primary of the induction coil ON a core of bundled steel wires. I tried both 12 gauge wire and 20 gauge for the core. The primary winding was/is 16 AWG enameled copper in both cases.

My 300 watt Tesla coil (oil burner ignition for primary spark) would work in the range you mention. The 1KW excitation would send the spark to dangerous lengths - hit my stereo speakers, wiped out the ram in the computer, would hit the walls - wood and wall board seemed to be conductive at whatever voltage it developed.

I noticed three distinct types of secondary sparks depending on the secondary coil and excitation. I built ~10 secondary coils and 4 primaries. Long streamers with a blue flame type of discharge that would rotate slowly around the end ball I figured for low voltage and high power, long white noisy sparks with high voltage and high power (with a large top terminal capacitance), and smaller forked lightening type of discharge (lots of branches in the spark tree) with high voltage and low power.

Best secondary was with silver plated wire wrap wire and coated with epoxy on a 4" PVC pipe form. Best primaries were a spiral of aluminum wire and a helix of 12 AWG copper with spaced turns supported by varnished wood slats.

Tesla coils are great fun. One does get an understanding of things like insulations - dielectric strength and dissipation factor, standing waves, resonance, skin effect, etc..

I could make X-rays and ozone.

Did you build your own capacitors? I did for the most part - commercial ones that I could afford just didn't last long. I had some hockey puck sized transmitting caps that worked well, but most of my caps were 1/8" window glass with aluminum flashing for the plates (potted in wax filled wood boxes)

I too started early. I started tinkering in grade school with vacuum tubes and the few transistors I could get my hands on.

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