That conductive stuff on circuit boards

I have a keyboard controller that I'm going to re-purpose (not a Mame controller). The membranes from the original keyboard were friction fitted to some traces of black conductive stuff on the card. Will solder stick to this stuff.

If it doesn't what is the safest way to remove it? What is a good solvent to try?

--
Mark Healey
marknews@healeyopolis.com
Reply to
Mark Healey
Loading thread data ...

I wish I knew what that meant !

What's a "Mame controller" btw ?

No.

The 'black conductive stuff' is carbon.

I'm not aware of any solvent for carbon. Abrasive removal is likely the only way.

Graham

Reply to
Eeyore

It means to stop using it for its original purpose and apply it to a different purpose.

MAME is "Multiple Arcade Machine Emulator" - you can play old classic arcade-type video games on your computer, if you have the ROM images from the original.

Here's my MAME hack:

formatting link

But my edge connector is gold flash over nickel, and solders like a dream.

Like an "ink eraser", maybe?

I'd just toss it and get ahold of a keyboard that's got a gold edge connector - they're about five bucks new, or free if you know where to shop! ;-)

Cheers! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

re-use of these proprietary nightmares is possible, but intense and tedious. i use those tiny pushbutton switches to replace the "gone-bad" carbon/membrane buttons.

membrane hand controllers are nasty short term junk, made to give the factories endless job security. i hate them.

you may break the carbon, just scribe through it with a pointy object enough to break the route.. they do not solder, tried again and again many, many ways NO DICE. no flux or other joins carbon and tin unless you heat it to about 2000 degrees, but then you end up with an entire carbon pile of junk anyway.

you may subvert this problem by using something called "Nickle Print" or some name like that. it is a paint like conductive stuff in a 2-3 ounce bottle, abt $5-10 buks US dollars. GC electronics, (its not Walmart stuff), go to a real hobby shop, electronics shop, or EBAY!

formatting link

i use that silver plated Kynar wire for prototyping ( wire/wrapped) for point to point. clean the carbon you want to connect to, strip about .0625 inches (1/16) of insulation from the end, put down a pinhead spot of the nicklepaint, secure the wire with tape or better, use hot melt glue to secure, do NOT glue over the paint, it MUST dry BEFORE you use it! most times it works 99 percent of the time, otherwise you usually put another dot of nicklepaint on it and dry, other wise, start over. PREPARATION is the key to success here!

at purchase, immediatly dissasseble them, get to the point between the contact and those shitty carbon dots and spray some real silicone lubricant, do NOT use the silicone crap found in Auto supply stores, that has petroleum product in it that will ruin the menbrane. better yet get some fuser silicone lube from someone who has one of those monstrous Office max or Copy Max or Staples duplicating machines. that comes in huge bottles, they always throw 10 percent away each time they refill.

its gooey, sticky, but it never dries or ever migrates. it displaces moisture and keeps the switches perfect for YEARS! but you will never be able to paint anything it touches either.

Reply to
HapticZ

ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.