"Roger Hamlett"
** Many cheaper alternatives exist - all with low tempcos.** More absolute BULLSHIT.
The variation is only a few percent.
** Tungsten lamps vary by a ratio of 10:1 or more.You are just plucking numbers out of you fat bum.
......... Phil
On 31 Mar 2006 23:22:53 -0800, "Nitin" Gave us:
Actually, he should buy a heater for that locale, and take the correct heater for the locale he is to be in, depending on where he decides to go. Problem solved.
--- Not only do you not know what you're talking about, you ought to learn to post properly.
Since you're posting from Google groups, maybe you ought to read what they have to say about it. From:
"Summarize what you're following up.
When you click "Reply" under "show options" to follow up an existing article, Google Groups includes the full article in quotes, with the cursor at the top of the article. Tempting though it is to just start typing your message, please STOP and do two things first. Look at the quoted text and remove parts that are irrelevant. Then, go to the BOTTOM of the article and start typing there. Doing this makes it much easier for your readers to get through your post. They'll have a reminder of the relevant text before your comment, but won't have to re-read the entire article. And if your reply appears on a site before the original article does, they'll get the gist of what you're talking about."
-- John Fields Professional Circuit Designer
I suggest you take your medicine, and stop being rude. I said 'Tungsten filament lamps', as are used in devices like this for heating, _not_ for light bulbs. Given that this was a discussion about heating units, I would hope that anybody using even a few of their brain cells would understand this. In these applications, the filaments are typically run under 1000C, and have hot/cold resistances in the order of
4/5:1. 10:1, is the figure for a light heating to around 2200C. My figures are not 'plucked', but are based upon over 100 different kitchen applicances, that were tested by a company who I sometimes work for, as part of designing the electronics to feed a mains socket, from a DC inverter, in a caravan. They took peak current readings (this working off normal rated mains, so the inverter was not causing the difference), with a recording meter, for just about every kitchen appliance (waffle irons, kettles etc.), that they could borrow. We were suprised to find that most modern units of this sort (grilling units etc.), had higher inrush currents than we expected. Over 30%, drew nearly twice the current on 'switch on', that they drew when running. Most drew between this, and 4* the current expected. Just two, drew slightly more than this (peaking at 6.2*). The commonest heating elements, on dismantling a few units, were effectively PCB's printed on a ceramic substrate, while the units exhibiting the highest surge, had glass lamps running between dull red, through to a bright red heat. Countries of origin, ranged from the UK, Italy, and Japan, yet none (except one old kettle), behaved as a normal ni-chrome heating element would behave.Best Wishes
It doesn't change the voltage, just the connector. ie to the US style plug.
Really? "Converts 220/240V To U.S. Standard 110/120V"
That's the normal way to post on most company e-mailers (id; Lotus Notes). I keep this habit; Opinions are shared on the topic. I agree with myself.
Thanks for the feedback and the politeness dear Sir.
"Roy L. Fuchs" a écrit dans le message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...
I had nichrome have cold resistance half its hot resistance. Less of a change than most other metals - most metals have resistance about proportional to absolute temperature. Tungsten has resistance varying even more drastically with temperature than proportional to absolute temperature.
- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)
** You need to take a dose of rat bait and stop posting utter bullshit on a public forum. ** Shame you did not **post** any such damn thing.
My comment was totally correct and stands.
BTW:
I tested a modern (Chinese made) 2400 watt electric kettle.
Current draw started at 9.4 amps slowly falling to 9.2 amps.
Similarly for an modern, 800 watt toaster, 3.3amps falling to 3.2 amps.
--------------------------------------------
What you claimed above about a 1250 watt heating element is just pain WRONG.
The initial current draw is not "many times" that indicated by the the name plate wattage rating.
Domestic circuit breakers will not allow such extended period overloads.
....... Phil
or you can open the cooker and put the resistors in series to obtain
240v ..?
Then please post further comments on your company e-mail system, not on this Usenet newsgroup.
OK call mom and complain
"John Fields" a écrit dans le message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...
Notes).
--- Why bother? Trash like you are your own worst enemies and you'll blow up soon enough if left alone.
-- John Fields Professional Circuit Designer
Hi James,
As one person mentioned, if you badly want to use your pizza oven, buy a genuine transformer with plenty of copper and iron in it. It's the proper solution to the problem, will produce a nice waveform and won't run the risk of overheating if you select one with an appropriate continuous power rating. Such transformers are frequently used on building sites in the UK. Usually they have a yellow fibre glass case, but sometimes they're grey metal if intended for permanent installation. I have one which I use to power a Hougen magnetic drill, and they perhaps aren't as expensive as you might think. Figure about =A330 plus delivery for a used transformer in good condition. If you search hard you might get one for less. Something like this should satisfy your needs:
Best wishes,
Chris
Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
Ask the community — no account required