Beam interruption / time measurement

It's been many a year since I've messed with electronics -- back when a nice color television used maybe a dozen 6GH8A vacuum tubes. (Good riddance!)

Anyhow, what I have in mind is a low-cost timing setup, used to measure the time between two events -- both of which would be the interruption of a light beam. Extreme accuracy isn't necessary -- 0.01 seconds would be fine, so no high-speed industrial stuff needed.

I want to measure the amount of time a motorcycle rider uses (without touching a foot to the ground) to cover a fixed distance, riding as slowly as possible, for perhaps 20 feet. In other words, a 'slow race'. You'll see these at various biker events, and it's a whole lot tougher than it looks. Here's the best I've seen in a long time:

formatting link

I'm thinking of two pair of tripods, one for the start line and one for the end, with each pair holding an opto-electric device and a reflector.

The cheapest opto-electric devices I can think of are the safety units that automatically reverse a garage door opener. I have a pair (from an old dead opener), and they're pretty cheap on eBay. The problem with these is, I can't find any source of information about how these operate. Perhaps it's deliberately arcane knowledge, so that it's difficult to defeat their purpose.

Does anyone have a link or source of info on how I could use these critters to my purpose? Or, for that matter, a simpler, cheaper way to do the job accurately? I've seen timing kits specially made for racing, but they're asking about $600 and up. I'm thinking of a small fraction of that.

I also found these, after about an hour of web searching:

formatting link

... but it's hard to tell how much useful information they'd come with.

I haven't decided on what to use for the actual timer & output, but that might be the simplest part.

(One guy suggested pneumatic switches. Old-timers like me can remember when gas stations had hoses draped across the pump lanes which, when run over by a car tire, would ring a bell inside the station. They had these antiquities called 'attendants' who would come out and put gas in your car. Honest. Then they'd clean your windows. Nobody believes me, but it was very common back when 6GH8A's were about $3.50 a copy...)

Reply to
Robert Barr
Loading thread data ...

Robert,

I'll do some thinking about this. I've learned how important slow and controlled riding is on a motorcycle using the "friction zone" and rear brake techniques.

If I were building it, I would use a little micro controller, lcd, and associated switches and/or optical sensors. However, I'll see if I can come up with something simpler and more off-the-shelf.

Bob

Reply to
BobW

In thinking a little bit more about this, your pneumatic hose sensor (yes, I'm old enough to remember those, too) sounds like the most reliable and accurate solution to determining the start and stop points.

That guy in your video is amazing. I can't ride that slowly, yet. There is no doubt, in my mind, that the motor officers are the best riders on the planet. I have learned most of my techniques from a guy named Jerry Palladino and his videos at

formatting link
.

Still thinking....

Bob

Reply to
BobW

me,

One thing about pneumatic tubes you ought to consider. In a slow race an obstacle like a rubber hose could tip your bike. In that video the cop comes to a dead stop every couple feet and turns the handlebars to keep balance. What happens if you try to make a maneuver like that with a rubber hose under your front tire? Bummer to tip over right at the finish line.

Reply to
gearhead

--
http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GFRC,GFRC:2006-50,GFRC:en&q=tape+switch
Reply to
John Fields

You can get cheapo laser pointers for about $3 on ebay. Get two. Have them laying on the ground at the start and the finish, pointing into a little elongated box with a photodiode at the end. Build a sensor driver that gives you a pulse when the beam is interrupted by building this:

10 MEG ___ .----------|___|--------. | | | | | | | |\ | o---------|-\ | |\ | | >----------'----------|-\ | .-|+/ | >------.-- A Photo - | |/ 9V .----|+/ | diode ^ | | | |/ | | | .-. | ___ | o-------' 10k | |
Reply to
Bob Monsen

Slight correction. I built the circuit above and tried it out, and it works ok, but the sense is inverted from what you want. So, use this instead:

Use a 9V battery, and connect the 9V to Vcc on the opamps

10 MEG ___ .----------|___|---. | | 100k | | ___ | | .--|___|----. | |\ | 10k | | o--------o|-\ | ___ | |\ | | | >-----o---|___|--o----|+\ | | .-|+/ | >---o---- Out Photo - | |/ 9V .---o|-/ diode ^ | | | |/ | | .-. | o-------' 100k | | Pair '------------' |
Reply to
Bob Monsen

If you want a digital readout without having to measure pulse distances manually, check out the Frequency Counter option in Daqarta. You can make it as big as you want, and it has a period mode that will read out the time in msec directly. Its accuracy is determined by the crystal that controls your sound card sample rate, which is massive overkill for this application.

Best regards,

Bob Masta DAQARTA v3.50 Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis

formatting link
Scope, Spectrum, Spectrogram, FREE Signal Generator Science with your sound card!

Reply to
Bob Masta

ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.