240V circuit loading

Hi, Tim. Prime directive no-no here -- don't use ground to run current. Safety only, sir, just like you thought.

Carefully pop open the box cover with the circuit breaker off, and look to see if the neutral wire (the white one) was brought along. If so, it would be a simple thing to install another box right next to the

You really knew the right answer.

Good luck Chris

Ya, but I'm asking, is this outlet specifically 240V only? Perhaps I should ask, is it legal to use three prongs for 120-0-120 plus safety ground?

OK.

I'm guessing such would use a four-prong (two pole) style outlet, but that's just a guess, which is exactly why I'm asking.

Tim

-- Deep Fryer: a very philosophical monk. Website:

If you cut the breaker and look inside the 240 outlet, you should find 4 wires. 2 hot for 240 , 1 neutral and another to the ground or outlet box.

If you wanted you can temporarily buy a plug to fit your 240 outlet and connect one of the hot side wired to a 110 outlet using the neutral as ground and return. Else if you want more permanent connections, cut the 240 line and add a junction box to connect your 120 segments. Question the 240 line in , does it have a switch box before it? If so you can connect 2) 120 lines to it. Or if in dought call your electrician back and see what he can do for ya.

Jim...

This is not a receptacle rating issue, it is a code issue. Used to be that for some appliances you were allowed to use it that way, but current code requires a 4 prong receptacle/4 wire circuit.

Regarding the receptacle: for 240 volts only in new wiring; in older wiring was used for 120-0-120 and 240 simultaneously. Example - a 240 V electric range with 120V clock/lights.

I say use it as is. Now it is mandatory to include the following for the benefit of those who may become agitated by that opinion: If your house burns down from your induction heater, it won't matter if it was connected via a 4 prong or a 3 prong. Electrically, the current that ends up on the ground/neutral wire can't tell the difference. It won't heat the wire one little bit more or less, regardless of what you call the wire. If your device burns down your house or kills somebody, your legal problems are related to the "experimental device", not to the way it was connected. A simple code violation fades to insignificance as compared to the implications of using an "experimental device".

What you do not want to do is add a supplemental ground. If you do that, then you need to go to a 4 wire connection, and you need to bond the supplemental ground to the house grounding electrode system.

Finally (and again to make the naysayers happy) your existing circuit needs to be in good shape/properly sized conductors/correctly installed etc. Obviously, if the existing wiring is somehow deficient, you'll need to run a new 4-wire circuit. But you knew all of that.

Ed

It's legal (well, within code), and safe, if you DO in fact, have the

-0- in your 120-0-120. You need a real neutral there, as others have said, and under no circumstances should the safety ground be used to carry current (that's what GFCIs prevent.)

AND, you have to get a proper, 4-prong outlet, or mount an ordinary duplex box next to the 240 outlet and make two real 120V outlets, IF THE NEUTRAL IS AT THE BOX!!! If all you have is red, black, and green or bare, then NO IT CAN NOT BE DONE.

Hope This Helps! Rich

FYI, I peeked inside the receptacle box and the conduit has red, white and black, plus a bare ground which is screwed to the box (the receptacle itself, then, seems to be ungrounded?).

I also picked up three pieces of 8 AWG and armored/flex conduit for the induction heater's cord.

Tim

-- Deep Fryer: a very philosophical monk. Website:

The ground hole on the receptacle is grounded through its frame and mounting screws, to the box. If you have a plastic box, then you'll have to get outlets that have a green screw, for ground.

Good Luck! Rich