Salvage corroded copper power connector?

Bosch cordless drill, 14v. Battery plugs into handle via 2 copper "pinch" connectors (put your thumb and forefinger together at the fingerprints to get the idea).

I scraped the light corrosion off of them, but I presume, untreated, it will continue.

Is there any way to keep the corrosion from returning?

Thanks,

A thin coating of grease, such as like that is used on car batteries will usually stop corrosion.

--

JANA _____

I scraped the light corrosion off of them, but I presume, untreated, it will continue.

Is there any way to keep the corrosion from returning?

Thanks,

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DaveC snipped-for-privacy@privacy.net This is an invalid return address Please reply in the news group

I read in sci.electronics.design that DaveC wrote (in ) about 'Salvage corroded copper power connector?', on Fri, 15 Apr 2005:

Grease, preferably that copper-loaded stuff you can get for car battery lugs. Don't use too much.

Dave Clean electrodes with fine emery cloth. Smear throughout with Vaseline. It will delay corrosion.

How about tinning with silver-content electrical solder?

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On Fri, 15 Apr 2005 02:05:25 -0700, Jim Gregory wrote (in article ):

Vaseline, being a grease (and insulator), impedes current flow, no? Why are so many folks recommending a non-conductive grease? (As always, I presume I'm missing something, and have something to learn...)

The reason for greasing contacts is to keep oxygen away from them, preventing corrosion. The pressure of the contacts will displace the grease and allow current to flow. I know it sounds iffy, but it works. It's especially useful on cars for corrosion-prone things like headlight connectors, tail light sockets, battery posts, and ground lugs.

There's special grease sold for this called "dielectric grease", but for your application Vaseline will work fine. The grease is deliberately

Dissolve a little baking soda in warm water and soak the cable in that or pour over it. That should neutralize any acid.

yes.

With a base, copper will cease to corrode, having formed a protective coating (salt?).

All greases and lubricants are not equal. Don't let "Hypoy" or any form of extreme pressure gear lubricant anywhere near it. Those are designed to keep metal surfaces apart.

On Fri, 15 Apr 2005 16:33:39 -0700, NSM wrote (in article ):

The cause of the corrosion is due to the drill being stored in a damp environment for a short while, not acid.

Is the baking soda technique still appropriate?

When the connector is mated the grease is pushed aside. It is a "fluid" without solids, other than possibly some copper flakes, and the grease won't keep the connector parts from contacting each other. What it will do is keep oxygen from the exposed surfaces.

I wouldn't try the solder coating suggestion. I've tried that with brass, and to my chagrin, found that the soldering temp completely annealed the connector, rendering it useless.

Live and learn....

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Spray thee contacts with a bit of silicone lub or spray. That should do the trick

--jj

get

will

There's an anti-oxidant grease that's even better, (designed for the joint between copper and aluminum wiring, I think. One of last century's really bad ideas). Ilsco De-Ox is the tube I have, but I've seen it under different labels. Magic stuff if you've got a flashlight where the batteries leaked and other large cruded up wiring.

For more delicate stuff, there's the oxide remover flavor/color of Cramolin. (I can't remember if it's Red or Blue). Or its US counterpart, Caig Lab's DeOxit.

Mark Zenier snipped-for-privacy@eskimo.com Washington State resident

Good point. I hadn't thought of that.

I've tried solder-plating things, and it turns out that that thin layer of tin oxide is a very annoying insulator.

Good Luck! Rich

Why are you worrying about corrosion?Did your drill cease working?In all electrical installations and transmission and distribution cables, copper and aluminium is used.Both form a small oxide layer on the surface that comes in contact with air, that protects the metal beneath.

-- Tzortzakakis Dimitrios major in electrical engineering, freelance electrician FH von Iraklion-Kreta, freiberuflicher Elektriker dimtzort AT otenet DOT gr ? "DaveC" ?????? ??? ?????? news: snipped-for-privacy@news.sonic.net...

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------------ The contacts of concern in the original thread were battery terminals and clips. Sulfuric acid and copper produce copper sulphate which can cause problems. The vasolene trick works- make the contacts first then smear the vasolene. Side terminal batteries and sealed batteries don't have this problem.

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Vaseline.

presume

P.S. It's not only a lead acid batttery problem. I had to throw out a TV remote that had not been used for some time because of severe corrosion at the terminals.

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