If you can tolerate schottky reverse bias leakage, that would provide a better clamp.
You don't indicate if the user is plugging in an external supply, or the supply is hard wired. I'm not sure why you would expect a hard wired supply to go negative. [OK, maybe from one of those home brew switcher designs, which is of course why you should always buy a controller IC.]
I have a break out box I use for mobile applications to distribute 12vdc from a marine type battery (AGM). I use a fuse and parallel Schottky in the box. Actually a few Schottky diodes. Due to current hogging, I expect the diodes to turn on individually, so paralleling them doesn't do much in terms of current handling. My guess was the first diodes to turn on might fail before the fuse pops, so as each diode fails, a new one will take over. I added some junk box standard silicon diodes as well. Needless to say I haven't tested this! I just tossed in the parts because I had them handy and I couldn't see how it would hurt.
Regarding damage to ICs, you would really have to reach a diode turn on voltage to get the chip to draw significant current. The manufacturer is just guardbanding this by specing 0.3V.
With static DC, there are two way to damage an IC. Overvoltage will break down diode junctions. Reverse voltage will "melt" the metal trace in the path of the current.
This leads to a classic problem in IC metal fuse popping. If upon popping the fuse the voltage on the test pad spikes upwards, as can happen with a sudden di/dt as the fuse pops, the overvoltage can break down an internal junction and cause it to leak. Generally is it better to set up the fuse popper so it forward biases a junction after the fuse is popped. Given that the energy to pop the fuse is stored in a capacitor, you can predict how quickly the cap will discharge and thus predict the time the metal trace will have to conduct high current. Basically you can engineer around the potentially damaging situation. Add protection diodes and insure a sufficient metal width to them.