Replace battery charger for a kid's toy

The wall-wart battery charger for one of the kid's toys gave out, and I'm looking for ideas to replace it. The toy is powered by two 6VDC batteries; the wall-wart charger says "output 12VDC 1.2 amps".

Continuity tester says there is no circuit between the charger and the blade connectors at the end of the wires.

I thought I re-purpose a computer power supply for the task, but output of the power supply is 12VDC 12 amps. So I'm trying to apply the reading I've done on this: can I simply put a potentiometer inline and dial current down to 1.2 amps? Does the potentiometer or a resistor change the amperage but not the voltage? (The reading hasn't been too clear on this point.)

I'd appreciate any knowledge imparted, or links to a good source of info. Thanks!

Reply to
DaveO
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Yikes!

D from BC

Reply to
D from BC

What exactly do you mean here? This could be normal....

No you don't want to put a potentiometer in series, that will lower the voltage. You do want a fuse in series, however.

The toy will (or at least should) draw only the current that it needs, when supplied with the correct voltage. If the toy develops a fault, then it may draw much too much current, which the PC power supply will easily supply, and then the wires will get hot, melt, and possibly set fire to your house. If you put a fuse rated at perhaps 1.5A connected in series with the positive wire between the PC power supply and the toy then you may be able to prevent such a fire. Insulate all connections thoroughly and securely to prevent them from shorting to the case of the power supply or other grounded objects.

In order to make the PC power supply work, it is sometimes (but not always) necessary to put a load on the 5V output of the power supply. You may find that a small automotive bulb works, or you can buy a power resistor. For example, a 10 Ohm power resistor rated for 10 Watts should make it work. (It is not called upon to dissipate 10 Watts in this case, but the ratings of many power resistors are rather optimistic so it pays to specify a somewhat larger size than is theoretically needed.)

Unless you are able to get a knowledgeable friend to check over your installation for safety, I would advise not leaving the thing plugged in unless under direct supervision.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Jones

Wall warts can be susceptible to impact damage. Typically the transformer is soldered to a cheap single-sided PCB. When the unit falls and bounces off the floor, one or more transformer terminals can be ripped from the solder joint, or the foil can be cracked. If you can get the case open, you may want to check for such damage. As another post suggested, get someone knowledgeable to check your handiwork!

Best regards, Ralph in NH

Reply to
Ralph in NH

Hi, Chris and Ralph, and thanks for your replies. I realized too late that I posted to the "design" electronics group rather than the "basic" group and was hoping not to incur the wrath of the regular users- and I appreciate the time it took to develop cogent responses.

The fuse inline is a great safety idea that hadn't occurred to me- thanks. I'm planning to watch over this thing very closely when the time comes.

Thanks again!

Reply to
DaveO

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