Re: Product packaging

May 15, 2025 Last reply: 1 year ago 4 Replies


But, glossy smooth finishes are pretty boring (not everyone


>is blind; a product should appeal to sighted users as well!).

I have had good results in the past with the following:


Apply primers etc in the usual way, finishing up with a coat or two of matte black. Apply white transfer lettering. Apply a thin coat of cellulose varnish to fix the lettering and allow to dry thoroughly. Apply several more thin coats of cellulose varnish


This is similar to the methods used by coachbuilders in the past and produces the clearest readable lettering on a deep gloss black that appears to have depth. It would probably be too labour-intensive for anything but a one-off, but the underlying principle of a clear varnish layer on a matte undercoat could be adapted to small batch production and gives outstandingly good results; the 'depth' effect is really attractive.


For clear lettering, I have found nothing better than Helvetica Bold unless it is critical to distinguish between '1', 'I' and 'l', in which case you need a Roman font.


[...]
There seem to be some coatings that are widely used. But,
> they don't seem to hold up over the long term -- many get
> "tacky" as if a plasticizer s*it the bed (?)

I have some cooking utensils that I dread touching. The plastic surface is supposed to be soft and appealing, but on something that may come into contact with food, such as the handle of a frying pan spatula, it just feels tacky and uncleanable. -- Ugggh!


Some of the QUAD amplifiers were coated with a 'flock' surface that I presume was supposed to give the impression of quality or opulence. After a while it broke down into a disgusting sticky mess which needs a lot of work to remove cleanly without damaging the panels underneath.


You would do much better to avoid the latest gimmicky materials and just keep to established surface finishes applied in a thoughtful way. You aren't in the fashion business; fashion is ephemeral and risky but good taste lasts much longer.

Does that mean basically making it IP67 so that it can survive dunking in a basin of warm soapy water?

I have seen stuff intended for clean rooms where everything is made as smooth as possible and all moving parts hermetically sealed behind a flexible membrane that is very easy to wipe down.

Environment where (noxious) chemical spills are a real possibility.

In my case mouse buttons have a high polish and I still use keyboards that work OK even when the legends have long since worn completely off the most commonly used keys. "Q" and "Z" never seem to wear out. Advantage of touch typing.

Ancient mice with balls were pretty gross when they stopped working.

Last keyboard I had to retire got a glass of wine spilled into it and did not recover after careful washing with distilled water.

I've not designed anything like this, but could you separate the human contact surfaces from the functional part, with the contact surfaces being easily washable?

eg plastic-only front panel (no electronics) pops off and is dishwashable, reattaches to the body of the unit which is not subject to cleaning. Old Nokia phones had removable covers that could pop off and be separately washed.

The double duty of the cover is that it's also the device's outward 'dress'

- you make the body out of boring black structural plastic and then use the cover for the device's designed look and feel. You can spend the money printing a nice plastic cover instead of making the whole thing have a nice look, eg making it out of machined aluminium, or having to make the whole thing IP68.

Theo

Don Y snipped-for-privacy@foo.invalid Wrote in message:r

What about pulseox meters. Just a plastic case, smooth finish.

Cheers

I have a laser mouse that burns through the dust bunnies.

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