Re: Interesting on Tesla sudden accelerations...

> I wonder how much current needs the power steering? I mean for my

>> gasoline car, not a tesla.
>
> Perhaps look for the fuse controling that circuit?
>
> Common sense suggests it would likely be on its own circuit
> (so something unrelated taking out the fuse doesn't cost you
> your steering).

Good point. I'll have to find the fuse box next time :-D

> I'll check on my car to see if it is readily apparent.
>
> [Have you noticed how "different" electric assist feels
> when you hit the limits vs. the old hydraulic assist?]

Mine would make a scaring noise, so I turned the wheel a bit off.

It is quite some power.

My current car has a button to change the assist power, for city or for normal use. It definitely feels softer on the city position. I only use it for parking, then the small finger suffices.

On my previous car the electric steering broke down, and the replacement was quite expensive: 1500 or 2000 €, IIRC.

I was on a highway and it was really surprising, the wheel became suddenly very, very hard for a second, then would return to normal. Then failed again a minute later, and repeat. Very surprising at 100..120 Km/h.

I hope it at least gives the small finger a bit of a workout!

Maybe you should look for a hydraulic power steering replacement? The electric ones sound pretty dangerous.

electric ones like on your Tesla?

You can change how responsive the steering is to your "commands" (motions). You can also make the response as linear or nonlinear as you choose. (can you say "sporty"?)

Manufacturers like it because it saves on fuel economy and gives them greater leeway over where they can locate the components -- no need to tap off the rotating crankshaft for operational power. One less fluid to maintain, no plumbing to install, etc.

And, it lets them change the feel of the steering without regard for engine speed or steering "load".

I suspect the "controller" failed, not the assist motor? All auto electronics are overpriced. But, I suspect you *had* it repaired (instead of buying parts for a DIY) so ended up having to deal with high labor costs.

In SWMBO's vehicle, the controller is probably at least two hours of labor to access and replace.

And, it's in the passenger compartment so doubly inconvenient.

I lost a front wheel bearing at highway speeds. This is exciting. You lose braking because the rotor's wobble moves the calipers apart.

Unfortunately for me, I had paid to have my brakes done prior to that. The morons failed to install the parking brake linkage (rear drums) so I had no "emergency brake", either. (have never had anyone service my brakes since!)

It was an interesting ~12 mile drive! But, an inexpensive repair: new rotor, bearing and brake linkage (DIY).

There are often two fuseboxes so if it's not in the first one you check, look elsewhere.

Hydraulic systems would scream as the belt slipped on the pump when it "could give no more".

I've had cars with no power steering and it's no big deal when moving at any driving speed. It's turning the wheel at low speeds or parked that is hard. That's why old cars had large steering wheels, lots of leverage.

dual circuit brakes have mandatory since the late 60's so you only lose half your brakes

There can even be three, that I've seen. There's no reason to put all fuses in the same box. They try to minimize wiring these days. It has gotten out of control and adds lots of weight to a car. That's why they were talking about switching to 48V electrical systems some 15-20 years ago. But it seems the accessory providers didn't want to invest the money in the redesign, and the automakers didn't want to either.

I've seen this idea mentioned more recently. I wonder if it will get traction this time?

No, that was when the belt was not adequately tight. There is a bypass which prevents damage to the pump or any other part in such situations. But if the belt is not tight enough, it will slip before reaching that pressure.

The front brakes do most of the braking in a car. With one rotor wobbling (the calipers ride *on* the rotor, not ABOVE it), that meant both front wheels were unable to provide braking. I was OBVIOUSLY able to slow the vehicle else I wouldn't have been able to make turns, adjust to the changes in speed limits and, ultimately, stop at my home without crashing through the back of the garage!

But, any sudden stop was out of the question. You wouldn't dream of tailgating another driver -- even if he pulled in front of you. And, because EVERY braking attempt appears severe (to the hydraulics), the proportioning valve works against you on those brakes that you DO still have (the rear).

The parking brake, by contrast, would allow me to "force the issue" as it is controlled by a direct mechanical linkage.

Assuming ALL of the pieces are in place! :<

I assume most were diagonal split, having only rear brakes isn't worth much