My nephew texted me to say his PS3 HDMI port is busted. Wants me to fix it.
Q: Anybody got a part # for this connector?
It's the 3rd one down on the left hand side of this image:
Through hole. And apparently, there's a "slim" version PS3 and it uses a different connector, as does the PS4.
I looked for a teardown parts list online, but didn't find one. I might not be looking in all the right places though.
Thanks!!
The port probably NOT busted. There are HDMI related problems worth exploring before you assume the connector is broken. "How to solve PS3 Display problem and how to get HD display back"
If the connector is really mangled, you can get (almost) anything on eBay. Searching for "PS3 HDMI connector" yields: etc... Plenty more available.
Note that some of these are for the 2000 and 2500 PS3, while others are for the 3000 or 3001 PS3. Identify the console before buying.
Replacing these through hole connectors are difficult. In order, I remove the metal shielding, remove the plastic cover to expose the pins, and then unsolder the pins one at a time. No need to save the old connector. I use a hot air SMT desoldering tool instead of copper braid. There are several videos on YouTube for how it's done.
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
On Sunday, April 8, 2018 at 12:56:47 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: There are several videos on YouTube for how it's done.
Thanks Jeff, I'm waiting for nephew to confirm which model he has (I'm suspecting a regular PS3 as my sister's family is usually money-challenged.)
Anyway, I looked at one of the YouTube videos and while it looks like an invasive project, it's not too bad if you have all the right gear, which I do at work. I just don't want to futz with not having the exact HDMI, and this one is a thru-hole 19-pin job, plus the mechanical mounting pins. Definitely a heat-gun project.
I was hoping for a DigiKey or Mouser part#. I guess I could go the eBay route, but that's not my first preference.
OK. I'll wait before digging. However, I did sift through what Digikey offers in HDMI type A receptacles (right angle PCB). There are 271 candidates. Of the one's that had readable photos, all of them had 4 metal mounting pins. The photos of the PS3 connectors all show 2 metal mounting pins. I would guess(tm) that it would be possible to break off the extra pins, but I'm not certain:
Not a heat gun as in a shrink tube gun or hair dryer, but an SMT hot air rework station. Something like this: Mine is similar but I can't find a photo.
I hate to be the bearer of the obvious, but most consumer electronics is not designed to be repaired. I've ranted on the topic before (several times) with little effect. The GUM (great unwashed masses) want it cheap, at any price. At this time, it is difficult to obtain parts, schematics, waveforms, voltages, theory of operation, or the time of day from the manufacturers of consumer electronics. However, there is hope, in the various right to repair bills: Of course, it won't work because the politicians will add amendments that exempt specific industries until everything is exempt. Automobiles just got snuck in as an exemption. I expect Apple products to be next. Oh well.
I'll wait until you identify the model number and look again.
Fast, cheap, and not great. What more could you want?
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
$100. Hard to beat that. We have an SMT re-work station at work, but for $100 I think I'll have to g et one for home. :)
Interesting (not really) that 11 people are "watching" this item on eBay. Like what, they think they're going to get one for $90? :)
I concur with your assessment about the overall futility of repairing many modern-day mass produced consumer electronics. A friend's Marantz 5.1 surr ound-sound HDMI-capable stereo receiver comes immediately to mind. Total p iece of shit. (I really can't stress that enough!) Way too complex for wh at it is (as in, Marantz must have some unwritten policy about using as man y discrete circuit boards and interconnects for feature add-on's as possibl e). Which circuit boards are single-sided, with I'm guessing 0.00001 ounce "copper"? Might be slag or pewter? Hard to tell. :)
You can't even get to the diagnostic test ports without disassembling the v ery things you want to test. Not that it matters much since you can't even start some of the tests without using the infra-red remote (which of cours e, was lost years ago).
In short: Not manufactured with the repairman in mind.
The one in the above URL is 220VAC, not 117VAC. It's also coming from China, which may take a while to arrive.
If you want cheap, these might be of interest for $50: or $56: or $51: If you do buy one for the PS3 repair, please practice on some old PCB's before attacking the PS3. There's a fine line between unsoldering and incineration. Also, plastic melts before solder. Build a heat wall out of some aluminum foil to protect nearby parts. Use liquid flux. I still suggest removing one pin at a time.
You might want to look into low temp bismuth/tin solder (Chip Quick and Quick Alloy):
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
One more for $36:
-- Jeff Liebermann snipped-for-privacy@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D
Thanks Jeff!
BTW: Some of our parts stock at work (particularly RF connectors) have part#'s that begin with "CCC". I think it stands for "Ching-Chang-Chong". :)
The slow-boat is great for some stuff. (Maybe even this?) But I can't say I'd recommend them for anything RF above about 300 MHz. :)
We have a tech who can assist me (or just do it for me). I'm old-school in that the vast majority of my [extensive] soldering experience involves a Pace SX-70/85 vacuum extractor for thru-hole.
Oh, and lead solder of course.
Close. Try Chi Chi Chong: Someone in China either had a great sense of humor, or was totally stoned.
Except for PIM (passive intermodulation), some tolerance problems, and a tendency to fall apart when stressed, I haven't seen many problems with Chinese connectors.
Ummm... something like this antique on my bench? I don't think the Pace solder sucking tip I use with it will fit between the pins on the HDMI connector.
Of course. When it seemed that the sale of leaded solder was going to be banned, I stocked up with a collection of various 63/37 lead/tin rolls of solder. After a while, I realized that the ban wasn't going to be enforced, so I sold off a few rolls at a loss. I still have enough solder to last the rest of my life.
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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