Easy to say, much harder to do. No small part of the evidence is about who the defendant is and whether you believe he would have done the crime. That's hard to be objective about.
I think a case is a bit more than that. Without any evidence of guilt there won't be a trial.
I wouldn't mind so much. But putting someone in jail for a long time would be a tough decision. It is hard to be as clear about guilt as some here would be.
-- Rick C
Thanks for the lesson. I will try it. I'm sure I can't make it any worse than it already is.
Many[1] car insurance policies in the UK include windscreen repair/replacement without affecting the no-claims discount. It might be worth checking yours.
[1] i.e. all the ones I can remember having
Interesting the idea to get the epoxy into the crack with a hair dryer. I thought the "pros" used a vacuum cup over the crack to help it. Put the epoxy over the crack and push the cup down to expel the air from under the cup. Then pull on it to suck out all the air from the crack and give the epoxy a few moments to slide over the crack again. Let the cup back down and the pressure forces the epoxy into the crack.
The "pros" seem to be a bit nervous about doing this though. I have some stone hits that are no bigger than a quarter and the guy seemed to think this was very borderline. I guess they are worried they will have to pay for the windshield if it doesn't work.
-- Rick C
This seems to vary a lot by state. When I lived in Vermont, this was a relatively cheap insurance rider. It doesn't seem to be cheap, or even available in other states I've lived in.
You have to remember that each state has its own insurance rules and costs and features vary *widely*.
On Apr 27, 2017, rickman wrote (in article ):
This sounds workable, and possibly faster than the heat method, especially if fast-setting epoxy is used..
Not that the heat method is all that slow. Use of slow-setting epoxy makes the process less time critical, best for ocasional use.
My Baltimore friend used thin clear slow-setting epoxy and heat, but no suction, so no implosion risk.
It?s best to apply the heat from the side opposite to the crack, usually heating the inside, as wicking pulls towards the hotter side.
He fed the catalized epoxy resin into the center of the crack, and allowed the warm resin to wick into the crack until full. The heat reduces the viscosity so it wicks quickly, before apreciable setting occurs.
One probes the hardening epoxy from time to time, and when it is no longer liquid, cleans the surface off with a new razor blade, before the resin becomes too hard for a razor to work.
This is mostly an optical repair - the glued crack isn?t all that much stronger than without the epoxy.
Joe Gwinn
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