OT: Toaster oven problem

Tha is about $60 more than what i paid for this new toaster oven..

Reply to
Robert Baer
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And that also speeds them up...HOT electrons (!)

Reply to
Robert Baer

oven is gonna heat up to approach the inner surface

This toaster oven seems to have even temperature left-right; prolly due to the fan (re-wired to run forever).

Reply to
Robert Baer

How many hours have you spent modifying it, VS using a plug & play solution?

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You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

The bake is after cleaning, and not powered up. We had a large hotbox at Microdyne to dry boards.

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You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

Well..PLUG the $$$ into my pocket and i will PLAY with a furnace similar to the Harbor freight one BUT at one-third to one-fifth the power piggishness.

Reply to
Robert Baer

Results.. Used a DCT at the center on the top, and another DCT at the center of the back; did some cal runs and have the following rough numbers (accurate to 15 decimal places according to my IBM 7094):

before 1Layer 2Layers Final top 72C 98C 70C 68C back 140C 90C 84C 79C

"1Layer" and "2Layer" refers to layers of the automotive reflective barrier used on the inside back of the oven. It is clear that the first layer made a substantial improvement to the back temperature; it is my guess that some of the reflected energy then went up,causing the top temperature to rise. Two layers were an improvement on that. Then i added one layer on the inside top of the oven, then filled the top airspace (between oven cavity and metal cover) with fiberglass, then reflective barrier, and final layer of fiberglass. Net result is a substantial improvement, but not OhShit compliant (60C or less) - so EuroPro has some 'splaining tewdew.

Too bad there wasn't a full inch of airspace; i could have made it only Baer-ly warm, like my breadmaker.

Reply to
Robert Baer

Did you read the manual on the unit? It lists the current for the time the elements are on. It uses multiple elements and a vent fan. If you were in no hurry for it to come up to operating temperature you could unhook the fan and one or two of the elements. Or get a sheet of cement board and make your own for a lot less, and with as much insulation as you can stuff into it to make it more energy efficient than either your toaster of the HF item.

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You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

Well, YOU might be able to make one and have it look decent. But I could do neither,unless i spent a lot of money hiring capable workers to do the engineering and construction.

  • The fan ensures even temperature distribution - making it a must. So you are saying that i should have $$pent hundreds of dollars for the Harbor Freight boat-anchor that i can hardly lift, then rip it to shreds to allow switchable element selection? All in the face of a free,working toaster oven that draws about 1/3 the power at most?
Reply to
Robert Baer

All you would need are simple hand tools, or a circular saw, tools that have been around the house since I could walk except for the circular saw that arrived when I was 10. A plywood box to hold everything together, or simple metal tube frame and sheet metal skin are easy to make, as well.

The fan in the HF unit is to remove plastic fumes & humidity.

I'm not telling you to spend anything. I was simply pointing out how to make the HF unit more usable in some settings.

How does it draw 1/3 of the power? Both are insulated. The HF would have higher peak current, but be on less time so it would average out to the same consumption, with similar insulation.

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You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

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