Only one EV charger at home?!

Not really. They are simpler cheaper and slightly more efficient. And give greater control of the vehicle.

At least F1 cars put the light on when regenerating. I assume EVs are the same

Lovely lady I met was talking about curry - 'Ring Sting' was the phrase.

Presumably you're still using the brakes though? eg if you're driving at speed on the motorway and the tail lights come on in front of you, you're not reaching for the gear stick to change down instead of braking?

Theo

A friend tried "Engine breaking" at speed on the M1 for that reason. The engine broke.

My brakes last over 100000 Km. I barely use them. The clutch lasts over

My Opel Corsa. Braking is assisted, not by wire, AFAIK.

Ok, but physically, how does that work?

Oh, that dish washing machine did a heck of a rack when it was new. My father got it in the late 70's, I think.

The test is done in the driving school car, and all of them I have seen are manual shift.

You could use another car, but it has to be fitted with pedals on the other seat.

I don't know how those particular tests are done. My guess is, it is provided by the driving school as well.

...

Not unless your brakes are US, no.

I vividly remember using the engine and handbrake to avoid the people who were overtaking me and slamming their brakes on when my master cylinder hydraulic line fractured

Here, gasoline is very expensive. 1.7€ a litre. A lot of that are taxes. Due to that, our cars tend to be small, and designed to drink little. An automatic shift uses more gasoline, so people really prefer manual shift cars.

In 2017, automatics were 10% of the market. In 2020, one source says they are 30% of new vehicles.

Digitally, the voltage/current are controlled by the BMS based on State of Health/Charge (SOH/SOC). However, it is not optimized with the same motor. The traction motor is designed to work under the battery voltage. In theory, we want regen voltage to be over the battery voltage.

I get around 2 miles/KWh round-trip over 150ft elevation vs. 3 mi/KWh on level land. So, down slope brake/regen may be 50% efficient. There is room for improvement. I am thinking about adding a fifth wheel regenerating alternator.

Back in the 1970s when I learned to drive, they didn't think manual transmissions were sufficiently important to teach. (A friend of mine taught me to drive stick shift a few years after I got my license.)

We had to provide our own car for the driving test, which was administered by the government agency that licenses drivers.

There's no differentiation between manual and automatic transmissions in the licensing of drivers, and I don't think there ever has been.

torsdag den 20. april 2023 kl. 00.28.07 UTC+2 skrev Rod Speed:

here the driving school and the test in the driving school's car And if you take your license in an automatic you are not allowed to drive a manual

Unless it's changed recently, UK driving licences specify manual or automatic.

If they are slowing fast enough to need it. Usually for that to be the case, you'd either be braking anyway or the cruise control would be doing it for you as you catch up with the vehicle in front.

RH were the cheap end of the market, with poor standards and an awful build video rather than a manual. Not bolt together like a Caterham - you had to do a lot of measuring, cutting, bending and drilling yourself, but you could get a very good outcome cheaply, however, it was a lot more work.

They were unusual in that, for many years, they did not consist of body panels over a space-frame, but were of monocoque construction ... many in stainless-steel no less!

Heavier than many others too, but still a car that weighed less than a classic Mini, but sat lower and wider, with the engine behind the front axle line and with the ability to put a whole variety of engines in (from motorbike engines, up to [one factory example only] a V12 jaguar engine) so great fun.

In their peak years, they sold around 500 kits per year.

Eventually the company was sold to Great British Sport Cars, who produced a more conventional kit. They actually produce a kit designed for the US, where people have successfully built and registered them.

It depends upon the situation. If you spot a problem early enough, you lift off the accelerator and let the car slow with engine braking, changing down as the revs drop to a level suitable to do so.

With less warning or about town, you combine engine braking and use of the brakes.

We even less warning, you don't change down, just dip the clutch just before coming to a stop, to avoid stalling the engine.