Glueing PCB's Together

I would use slow cure epoxy (the slower the cure time, the higher the thermal resistance, generally). You can make liquid epoxy more thixotropic (less drippy and more semi-solid) by adding talcum powder to it.

I would think Epoxy. Are you going to have to use eyelets, or some other alternative to plated through holes? I wonder if the 2X board thickness will be a problem for you?

Also, when I first read this, "pop-rivets" came to mind, but then again, I never really did that well in shop class. :) -mpm

Epoxy, and not too much of it. Just clamp them together nice and snug, and cure at room temp. Be careful about alignment!

John

Silicone usually works for most things. I would use that or Plummers Goop. With Plummers Goop, it will not come apart. It will also take a few days to dry, so will silicone Epoxy or anaerobic stuff will be much faster. Roughen up surface for silicone and Plummers Goop., or even epoxy. Thought about using fiberglass epoxy?

greg

lol..pop rivets ..I might do that.. :) It gets me thinking.. I don't know why I'm thinking glue... I'll check out using bolts, clips ....maybe the soldered through hole parts might keep the boards together..

There's no eyelets, or plated through holes..

I have SMD parts on one side and through hole parts hand soldered on both sides to join layers.

It's DIY homebrew stuff..

D from BC

dry, so will silicone

and Plummers Goop., or

fiberglass epoxy? Is that just epoxy with fiberglass in it? Or do you mean automotive epoxy? I get the big can :)

I didn't favor silicone due to slow cure.. Also..silicone doesnt have nice flow...however I have fixes for that.. I know there's 2 part silicones but haven't tried to getm yet.

Plummers Goop... :) That made me think of PL400 heavy duty sub floor construction adhesive from Home Depot (hardware store)

If it's good enough for frozen lumber..it's gotta ge good PCB glue! :) ..just kidding.. D from BC

I've seen it done with a nut and bolt at each corner. That's probably the easiest and quickest.

But, why? Scrap 2 sided is just as easy to get as single sided.

Barry

Go with the epoxy. The mere mention of pop rivets makes my hair stand on end =:-O . And nuts and bolts to hold two boards back-to-back is just bush.

If you have access to a planer, you could shave them from .062 to .031, then the final board would look real. ;-)

Cheers! Rich

dry, so will silicone

and Plummers Goop., or

Yes, just like the PCBs are made of.

But you don't need any glass for the joint.

Not if you're talking about the kind for fiberglas body work.

Geez, D, the boards are _made of_ epoxy! How could you even _contemplate_ anything else?

Sheesh! ;-) Rich

You've never used copper pop rivets to hold sockets to a steel chassis, so you can solder the rivet and socket to the chassis?

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Wouldn't it be a bit easier to just start with 0.8mm material?

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

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dry, so will silicone

and Plummers Goop., or

lol... Makes sense epoxy based PCB's glued together with ....what else..more epoxy! :)

k...Epoxy wins...

But I like the cool factor of an anaerobic adhesive. :) I have some left over Loctite threadlocker for nults and bolts.. No mixing... Uncured portion is cleaned away. Nice flow. Clueless it it'll work which makes it fun :P

The polyester resin + hardener I thought would be a cheapass alternative to epoxy..But I'm using such small quantities..so epoxy rules.. I think the polyester resin fumes are bad too.. D from BC

If you *ever* use RTV on electrical gear, DON'T use the stuff you'd get from Home Depot:

*-*-*+Dow/Corning-*+not.self.leveling+Non.Acid+never-hardens+sensor-safe+zz-zz+qq-qq+messy+suitable-for-*-*-metals

(I couldn't get the nicely threaded version to work for me):

*-*-*+Dow/Corning-*+not.self.leveling+Non.Acid+never-hardens+sensor-safe+zz-zz+qq-qq+messy+suitable-for-*-*-metals

It has crummy adhesion to epoxy, too.

Place vias, and then solid copper wires strategically around the board. Solder them up during the epoxy step for both board to board conduction paths, as well as physical stationing.

...

Yes, if he hasn't ordered the material yet - but if he hasn't, why not just order double-sided? So I ass-u-me-d that he had ordinary .062 boards on hand that he wanted to glue together. :-)

D, what exactly _do_ you have so far?

Thanks, Rich P.S.: in American English, it's "gluing". :-)

0.032" total thickness...floppy stuff :) I have about 12sq ft of single clad PCB in my junk storage. But my projects are often 2 clad.. Hence..the glue idea..

glu ing...check :) D from BC

First of all, I think pop-rivets get undeserved bad press!

Maybe if they called 'em "Miracle Rivets" or "Oxy-Rivets?" (Nevermind, that's a Billy Mayes TV flashback - That guy would sell his mother!!.)

I think pop-rivets are God's gift to engineers. (You can quote me on that!) Of course, it could also explain why they won't let me back in the Shop anymore...

...unless the polyurethane foam packager gets clogged or goes off line, and then all of the sudden I'm McGuyver or something.

Hand routing single-sided boards is becoming a lost art, I fear....

-mpm