Expensive cup, but it suggests a possible part of the circuit - a switch.
|^| ignitor with wires | | | | --- / \ || || || || || || || || || || || || || || || || | | | | +--------------+ | | | | | | slide copper cup to complete circuit --- | V - +-------o o--+ | | +-----------------------------+ -------------------------------------------- corrugated material to hide wires -- coroplast?
hide battery wherever -- inside candle?
Now you can show an unlit candle without the light setting it off.
I knew them as solar ignitors. If you can get a CdS cell to pass enough current from a big enough battery ( = fat candle ) to ignite the thing or the match, that's great. I don't see it happening.
Google on "Fusing Current of Wire in Amperes (approximate)" That should give you Sphero's table. You'll see that 40 AWG tin wire is the lowest on the table and even with a CdS cell as low as 400 ohms, it would take a 112 V source to fuse it.
CdS - Cadmium Sulfide photocell. A light sensitive resistor. Mouser, Digikey, Radio Sh*t, I guess. You can find circuits for light triggers via google. Try "electronic rooster". For the hell of it, let's grab Mouser 338-76c348 with 500k in the dark and 3k - 20k in the light (that's Zepplin) Iffff... you can get a wire to fuse from
2 1.5V batts like the steel wool trick (test it with just the battery to make sure it heats and fuses quickly to avoid burning out your transistor,) great. Otherwise you'd need to use a larger battery. The safety is kinda overkill as long as you turn the pot all the way down before adjusting the trigger point, but it'd be good to have one to safe the thing while it's backstage or whatever. Adjust it under the same lighting conditions you'll have during the show. +------------+--------------+-------------------+ | | | | | | | | | | .-. | | .-. ( X ) Ignitor | safety shunt | | | '-' | | CdS | | | | | '-' +-------------------+ | | | | 3 V | 100 | --- | ___ |/ - +----|___|---| 2N3904 or 2N2222 | | |>| | | | | | | .-. | | 50 K | |