Best Monitor?

Get one with LED backlight. They stay very cool.

Yep that was what was wrong with both my ViewSonic's, CFL backlit :-(

I'm considering this one...

ViewSonic VX2450WM-LED 24-Inch (23.6-Inch Vis) Widescreen LED Monitor

CFL? Compact fluorescent? Or do you mean EL? I don't pay attention to what lights up my display -- it's just magic.

Chances are high that it wasn't the light emitter that broke down, but rather the wiring or the electronics -- meaning that if it'll break with the current technology, it'll break with LEDs, too.

I've had very good luck with the Dell Ultrasharp series.

"Jim Thompson" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

We got three of these at work, they are pretty good for the price. 16:10 too...

Cheers

I hear the common failure with LED backlighting is loosing a string. resulting is a square portion of the LCD without a backlight. Cheers

=A0 =A0 ...Jim Thompson

=A0 =A0| =A0 =A0mens =A0 =A0 |

=A0 | =A0 =A0 et =A0 =A0 =A0|

=A0|

=A0 =A0 =A0 |

I am very happy with my Acer x223w. Of course, I'm at that age where eyesight goes to s*it anyway...., along with everything else. :) Seriously though, I run it at 1680 x 1050 just fine, and I don't play video games or watch movies on it, at least not regularly. It's probably in the $200 range? Newegg.

I have a ViewSonic 27" LCD with a TV panel in there, 1920*1080. Inexpensive, IIRC I paid around $250 a year ago, works wonderfully.

Downside: I doesn't heat the office as well as the old Trinitron monitor did :-)

CCFL actually - cold cathode fluorescent lamps.

The most common failure modes relate to:

. crappy electros - a generic problem of an era (that is largely behind us). . CCFL ageing . poor solder joints on (CCFL) inverter transformers . semiconductor failure

in roughly that order.

Only the last of these risks transfers to LED-backlit screens, although they do have their own LED driver areas of failure

Get a Merrimac instead.

-- Many thanks,

Don Lancaster voice phone: (928)428-4073 Synergetics 3860 West First Street Box 809 Thatcher, AZ 85552 rss:

Please visit my GURU's LAIR web site at

I use a Samsung B2240. It was cheap (cheaper than the 24" jobs, and takes up less space) and it works fine.

Resolutions is 1680x1050, response time 5msec (not fast enough for gamers, but the contrast ratio is better - at 70,000:1 - than you get with faster LCDs).

-- Bill Sloman, Nijmegen

You mean 'CCFL backlit'. Cold Cathode, not Compact. :)

Best for what is the question? TN is fine for schematics. Images need TFT or SPVA.

For my money, I go with NEC displays. I suggest 16:10 format rather than

IPS displays are nice. I have a Dell U2410 and although they had production problems I got a good one. I see Panasonic has IPS in TV's now. Their Viera LED line sports IPS glass. I have to find a retailer that has them and check them out.

Cheers

I have the HP LP2475w also an IPS for the ability to do close to photoreal controlled wider gamut colourspace imaging but it is unnecessary for circuit diagrams (full HD 1920x1200 is nice). Out of the box brightness settings will burn a hole in the back of your head - some people compain about this in reviews.

But the question remains "best for what?" if the intention is mostly to deal with circuit diagrams I would probably go for the largest pixel count that my graphics card could handle and adequate display quality.

The Dell 27" U2711 IPS would be one I would consider now if I was in the market for a replacement (it is also both IPS and 2560x1440 WQHD res). Never seen one in the flesh so check reviews for known gotchas.

The equivalent NEC model is twice the price.

One thing to consider as the screen gets bigger you need a suitably high refresh rate to avoid seeing flicker in your peripheral vision. And check your graphics card can manage this native resolution!

Regards, Martin Brown

What is the failure mode?

If you try to turn it on, when there is an active video signal, does an image display for a half second and then go back off?

If so then there is a high degree of possibility that the problem with the monitor is easily repairable. The manufacturers of monitors use really crappy electrolytic capacitors in the power supply and over time these are either drying out or bulging to the point of venting.

I've repaired a slew of LCD monitors, including units from Dell, Samsung, LG, Viewsonic, NEC, Planar, and Sceptre that had this problem and were repaired with a handful of replacement capacitors from Mouser costing $6 or $7. The replacements restored the monitors to "works like new" condition!!

As a matter of fact, the problem is so common that a cottage industry (web style) has popped up with folks selling capacitor kits online. You give them the model number of your monitor and they will sell you a small bag of caps to replace those in your monitor. There are even some web sites that show photos - step by step DIY instructions - for opening up a monitor and replacing the capacitors.

Geez. That was UN-civil... :-)

I have a Haier 40" LED LCD display.

I input from my PC's HDMI out, however. AND my Xbox 360, AND my PS3.

And my PC has a second monitor, which I use at my desk. It is a 24" Samsung @ 2048 x 1152. One of the highest res LCDs that they made. I am sure that the new LED backlit jobs will have some high res offerings soon enough.

I use a ViewSonic VP2365wb at work. 23", 1900x1080 pixies, 178°x178° viewing angle. $300 at Newegg.

You want a monitor with 178°x178° viewing angle which means it's a IPS type display. The VP2365 is the cheapest IPS montitor I could find. PVA monitors are inexpensive and also support wide viewing angles, but quality can be an issue depending on manufacturer.

To fix your other monitor, you can take it apart and replace the bulging capacitors around the switching power supplies. I've taken in